Gems Log

The solemn atmosphere of Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum–the former residence of Prince Asaka (1887-1981)–sets the perfect stage for viewing the history of one of the world’s most prominent jewelers.

Tiffany & Co. is currently displaying a collection of its jewelry produced between 1837 and 2007, with accessories made using silver, gold, pearls, diamonds and other gemstones showcased in the Art Deco-style building.

“Teien is a jewel box,” said Annamarie Sandecki, director of Tiffany & Co. Archives, adding that she spent a considerable amount of time choosing the perfect venue.

While the location is an important factor in providing a luxurious and elegant feel, the way the items are displayed, she says, takes them back to the exquisite moments when the jewels were worn. To achieve this, Sandecki prepared four busts on which the jewelry are displayed to give viewers an idea of how they look as accessories, not just as artwork.

“Jewelry is…almost dead when it’s not on the body. So, I think, when I go to a jewelry exhibition and I look at all of the pieces and say, ‘Lovely, but how does it look on?’” she says. “Put it on the bust and it has a little bit of life. If you walk through the exhibition, one of the challenges is making the necklaces look right. We’re looking at the necklaces and designer made mounts that look a little bit like shoulders so you can see how they hang. Jewelry is living, it flows–how does it look in the light? How does it look on the person who’s wearing it?”

The exhibition starts with “Bird On a Rock”–a brooch made in 1995 with one of the world’s largest fancy yellow diamonds found in South Africa–and visitors are ushered into separate rooms with displays showcasing pieces from particular eras.

Tiffany & Co., which was cofounded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902), started off as a stationery and luxuries store in New York, but eventually concentrated on jewelry that has been designed for many famous figures, including Abraham Lincoln, who wanted something for his wife.

The exhibits trace the evolution of Tiffany from its earliest days all the way through to the popular “Open Heart” and modern designs by Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso (daughter of Pablo Picasso) and architect Frank Gehry. Visitors can see how America’s state of mind, politics and economy have affected jewelry design.

“We’re very American. We’re not European, we’ll never be European,” Sandecki said about Tiffany’s designs. “And what that means to be very American is that we are always trying to do different things…We are brave, we are creative, give a lot of energy. I sometimes think that if a country could be people, Americans would be small children, because we’re always running around bouncing. We’re always excited, we are always eager to learn something new or different.”

Of the 10 sections, Sandecki says her favorite is “the New York World’s Fair and the 1940s”–the difficult times during World War II. She says the section is very representative of the national character of Americans.

“To me, that’s when we were just children…It was a sad time for the rest of the world, and in the United States, we were still sad, but were willing to try new things, and as a company, we were strong enough to be able to have resources to try new things,” she said.

The designs in this period can be characterized as big and gorgeous, using huge gemstones despite it being a time when it was difficult to import stones.

“There were designers who were able to experiment, not a lot–the big suites, the big brooches and necklaces and bracelets–those were only made for four years. They ran out of the gemstones. Not a lot of them were made. I’ve seen, in 16 years, maybe about ten. But they’re fabulous! They’re so big, so exciting,” she said.

Many of the pieces of jewelry that Sandecki collected came with a story when they were handed to the art director.

“I’d like to say every piece of jewelry that I brought has a family story behind it. And I think I’m very lucky because the family has given that to us,” she said.

The exhibition takes visitors on a journey through the history of the United States, in which family heirlooms light the way, reflecting the illumination of a far-away land in Tokyo.

“The Jewels of Tiffany” runs through Dec. 16 at Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum in Minato Ward, Tokyo, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Last admission at 5:30 p.m.) Admission is 1,200 yen for adults, while 960 yen for college students and 600 yen for primary, middle and high school students and seniors aged 65 or older.

TOKYO SHOWCASES “JEWELS OF TIFFANY” EXHIBITION

Retailer giant, Tiffany & Co., is currently displaying select pieces of jewelry it has produced since 1837. The collection features items made using silver, gold, pearls, diamonds and other gemstones and is being showcased at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum.

The exhibition featured at the museum, which was also the former residence of Prince Asaka (1887-1987), opens with “Bird On a Rock,” which is a brooch made in 1995 with one of the world’s largest fancy yellow diamonds found in South Africa.

The exhibition entitled, “The Jewels of Tiffany” is comprised of 10 separate sections each showcasing a different era in American history. The pieces of jewelry are family heirlooms; each with their own unique story.

“The Jewels of Tiffany” is open to the public until December 16 at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum in Minato Ward, Tokyo.

Tiffany & Co. was co-founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812—1902). The company started out as a stationery and luxury store in New York and eventually established an emphasis on jewelry. As of January 31, 2007 there are 167 store locations worldwide.