Gems Log

1. Cut up those layered gold chains.
The trend is moving toward ’statement’ jewelry…that’s one standout necklace. Maybe it’s a dramatic medallion. Or a rich textured chain. Or a thick choker that screams for attention. If you have a long layered necklace, you can clip off some of the chains to turn it into a solitary piece. Just use a wire cutter to cut near the clasp.

2. Less is more.
National Jeweler is recommending wearing bolder, larger pieces that are gem- and color-intensive. Check your jewelry collection for dramatic pieces. Then wear only one or 2 at a time: an oversized cocktail ring or a dangly pair of earrings, for example. Whatever you choose, be sure they make an impression.

3. Look for versatile pieces.
A long stranded necklace with a clasp can be worn several ways: as a single strand, as a triple strand choker, even as a bracelet.

4. Earn a compliment.
Pay attention to which pieces of jewelry wins you a compliment. If your best friend, or a neighbor, or a stranger compliments you on a necklace, wear it more often. Jewelry is meant to enhance your look. It should catch someone’s attention. Same goes for what you like…if you find yourself giving a compliment, remember the piece. You can keep that in mind when shopping.

5. Buy what you love.
If you’re out shopping and something catches your eye instantly, respect that instinct. That first reaction is powerful. You really like a piece when you feel that emotion of “I want that.” If you love it, buy it. You’ll love it every time you put it on.

6. Try it on.
That being said, try on jewelry before purchasing. Be sure it’s comfortable. Does it have the right length? Can you work the clasp? Does it stay on? That test run is important because if a piece doesn’t fit, you won’t wear it.

7. Stack your bracelets.
Women’s Wear Daily declared the bracelet THE piece for this season. Wear any style you like: thin, thick, cuff, beaded, silver, gold, bronze. Many trendsetters are stacking them. Often it’s the same style stacked together. Or it’s the same color in a few different styles. Or it’s a group in complimentary colors. Any way you want to wear a bracelet, you’ll be a fashionista.

8. Give up the watch.
If you don’t wear bracelets, your excuse is “but I wear a watch so I can’t wear a bracelet!” So wear bracelets on your other wrist. Or buy bracelets that are thin and will coordinate with your watch (same metal, same color). Better yet, give up your watch. You carry a cell phone…get the time from that. Or ask a handsome stranger for the time.

9. Buy jewelry in neutral colors.
They’ll go with most of your wardrobe…giving you versatility. Greys, camels, frosts, blacks are all good choices. They go with everything. Or look for a multi-colored piece. Something with 10 hues in autumnal colors will match a lot of outfits.

10. Repair your favorite pieces.
If it’s an expensive piece, take it back to the store you purchased it from. If it’s from a local designer, call them…most local artists will do repairs for free…they want you to be able to wear their creations. If it’s a costume piece of jewelry, you can visit a craft store or a bead store. They might offer repairs. Or you can buy supplies to re-string a necklace or replace a clasp.

11. Ask Grandma for her jewelry.
So many retro and vintage styles are back in fashion. Take a look at your mom’s, aunt’s, or grandmother’s jewelry box. Look for enamel bracelets, Swarovski crystal necklaces, oversized earrings…all in vogue now. You can also find great vintage jewelry at estate sales, antique fairs and thrift stores.

12. Store your jewelry in an air tight container.
Oxygen is what makes sterling silver tarnish. So when you’re not wearing your jewelry put it in your jewelry box. Or you can even use a small ziplock bag. One from a grocery store is fine, or The Container Store has small bags in heavy plastic that are the perfect size for jewelry. To prevent tangling, store one necklace in one ziplock bag. Leave the clasp sticking out a bit from the zipper. That way the chain won’t tangle.

— Kirsten Goede, Chicago Jewelry Designer, Objets d’Envy

Cleaning tips

No matter how much money you spend on those fancy packaged jewelry cleaning kits the solution they use is mainly 50% ammonia and 50% water. If you want your own solution to have a fancy color just add a drop of red or blue dye to the solution and you will have the best jewelry cleaning solution for a cost of about 25 cents rather than $5.00.

This solution can be used to clean diamonds, rubies, sapphires, topaz, tourmalines, and just about any non-porous stones, along with any gold jewelry.

DO NOT use this solution with any porous gem material such as pearls, Lapis Lazuli, opal, or any other porous gem that will soak up the solution.

DO NOT allow your local jeweler to put your emerald into a ultrasonic cleaner. As we discussed in a previous section, virtually all emeralds are sealed with a clear resin-like oil and boiling them in an ultrasonic cleaner will take this sealer off.

If you wish to clean pearls, opals, Lapis Lazuli, or other gems of this type use a very mild soap and water solution with a soft cloth. This will remove any dirt without damaging the piece.

Emeralds
Emeralds should be cleaned with warm water, a very mild detergent, and a soft brush. Ultrasonic or steam cleaning is not safe and can result in breakage or inadvertent release of oils (which mask inclusions). Emeralds should be re-oiled every 2-5 years and reset only by jewelers experienced with the special handling requirements of these gems. Loose stones should be stored in velvet-lined boxes within individual compartments. They should be stored separately from diamonds and other harder gems to prevent scratching.

Alexandrite
This gem is sensitive to knocks, it is not resistant to Alkalis. Cleaning methods which are safe are ultrasonic, steamer or warm soapy water. When you are not wearing your Alexandrite place it in a clean cloth pouch in a separate compartment from other gems to avoid scratching.

Pearls
Do not toss your pearls carelessly into your purse, bag or jewel box. A pearls surface is soft and can be scratched by hard metal edges, keys etc. The proper way is to place your pearls in a chamois bag or wrap them in white tissue paper when putting them away.

Cosmetics, perspiration, saliva, perfumes, hairspray and just daily wear and tear can weaken and stretch the threads on which your pearls are hung. Every year have your pearls inspected by your jeweler and re-strung if necessary with a knot between each pearl, preventing a
disaster should your pearl string should break. Put your pearls on after you’ve applied hairspray. Hairspray will cause fine pearls to yellow.

Opals
Do not use a home ultrasonic machine or jewelry cleaner. Care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows, household chemicals, and extreme temperature changes ( If you have on an Opal ring in a warm heated car and step out into sub-zero weather the stone may shatter.) To maintain the brilliance of opal, it should be wiped clean with a soft cloth.

Amber
The absolute enemy of amber is oxygen. Before it is unearthed most amber specimens are in an anaerobic environment ( without oxygen). Once they are exposed to air they begin to deteriorate. To care for your amber pieces wash in a mild soap and water and pat dry gently. The acids from skin can be damaging also, it will build up on the piece and begin to break down the surface. Make a habit of regular cleaning of the jewelry.

The simplest measure you can take to protect amber specimens is to keep them in a cool place away from strong light. It’s not too practical
to totally exclude oxygen (air) from the amber, but placing it in small sealable plastic bags may help reduce the overall exposure levels over
time. For strict archival preservation, consider placing extremely rare or precious material under an inert gas.

Jade
Jade, though quite durable and once used like steel in early tools, is susceptible to breaking and should be handled with care. It is not
recommended to clean jade jewelry or figures using gem cleaner. In fact, it is often believe that jade will, over time, continue to darken in color by rubbing it for good luck and you wouldn’t want to wash it all away. We suggest a polishing cloth for cleaning your jade jewelry to maintain its beautiful shine.

Platinum
One of the rarest and most durable of the precious metals, platinum is resistant to tarnishing and discoloration by chemicals. However it still needs to be cared for properly. Store your platinum pieces separately, even the tough platinum can sustain scratches and wear from abrasive edges. If visible scratches do appear, the piece can be easily re-polished by your jeweler.

Silver
Store your silver in a cool, dry place. Preferably in a tarnish preventative bag or wrapped in felt or a soft cloth. Store them individually so they don’t scratch. DO NOT apply those commercial silver cleaners you see advertised on tv. They remove silver and damage your fine jewelry. Use a polishing cloth designed for silver to polish your silver. Tissue paper or paper towels can cause scratches because of the fibers in these products. Prevent tarnish in the first place by not exposing to air and light when stored. Avoid exposure to household chemicals or chlorinated water.

Gold
To clean your gold jewelry at home, you’ll find many commercial cleaners that work well. Pick up a small soft chamois to keep it nice and shiny. Remove al gold jewelry before showering, cleaning, swimming in chlorinated pools or hot-tubs. The chlorine and harsh chemicals will leave your fine gold pitted and weakened over time. If you find an old piece of gold that is covered with tarnish, make a solution of soap and water mixed with a few drops of ammonia. Place the jewelry in the solution and softly brush the piece with a soft toothbrush.

After brushing, rinse the solution off with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean cloth. If your gold jewelry contains colored gemstones,
look up the care of that gemstone before cleaning.

Diamonds
Diamonds attract skin oils. If a human touches a diamond the oils adhere to the surface. Use the cleaner mentioned above periodically. Avoid household cleaners and chlorine bleach. Chlorine in pools and hot-tubs will damage your gold setting, pitting the gold and may weaken prongs over time, leaving a danger of loosing your diamond.

Do not wear your diamond jewelry, especially rings, when doing rough work. A diamond is tough but can be chipped or damaged by a sharp blow. When they are stored in your Jewel box keep them separated from other jewelry, if they slide up against another piece they will scratch the other piece.