Gems Log

Jewelry designed by Wendy Rachel has been featured in high-profile publications like Elle Girl, Style, and InStyle. Her earrings have been worn on E! News Daily and she’s quickly building a reputation for herself and her designs.

Wendy does bracelets, necklaces, and earrings with a variety of semi-precious stones. All items are hand made, and the designs change with the season, offering the latest trends and colors. Some of her designs are one-of-a-kind pieces, but all are at least part of limited quantity runs, ensuring that you won’t see your piece every time you turn around.

Part of the company’s marketing efforts include the “Bracelet of Hope.” It’s a specially designed bracelet from which 20% of the profits go to breast cancer research in the United States and Canada. In addition to this, $1 from each sale of all other pieces in Wendy’s collection goes to breast cancer research.

About the jewelry designer Wendy Rachel

Growing up in Toronto, Canada, Wendy was always a creative person. After obtaining a Psychology degree and a graduate degree in Recreation Therapy, she moved to New York City to work with AIDS patients as a Recreation Therapist. Always restless to pursue new venues, Wendy decided to focus on her love for jewelry and enrolled in jewelry design classes at The Fashion Institute of Technology. Almost immediately, people began asking to purchase some of the pieces she was creating. The demand became so great that a business was born, Wendy Rachel. Beading has now become her passion.

Wendy’s creations reflect a sophisticated yet playful sense of style. Her pieces are versatile and can be worn both casually and as formal attire. Each piece of jewelry is handmade with only the finest hand picked semi-precious stones and is to be enjoyed every day. Most pieces are limited in quantity to ensure that she keeps up with the changing trends and styles. Wendy’s love of hearts can be found in most designs with her signature heart clasp.

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A few weeks before Christmas my wife kept talking about Brown Sugar Jewelry, I would have to say that I am not alone when I told my wife that I had no idea what they were. However I took this as a huge hint and decided to do the right thing and get her the present that she hinted at.

Upon searching I came across the site www.carolynkoslen.com, she has a range of five different jewelry products from Brown Sugar Charm Necklace, Brown Sugar Single Necklace, Brown Sugar Bracelet, Brown Sugar Earrings and Brown Sugar Ring. I would have to say that my heart skipped a beat when I saw the prices of the items, but I had to purchase one for her.

The Jewelry collection by Carolyn Koslen is huge and I must say the pieces are beautiful, it is very easy to navigate around the site, and the color scheme is very girly which is perfect for the intended buyer. If you would like to learn more about the Carolyn Koslen Jewelry Collection, they have launched a new design blog.

Each piece is made with great attention to detail, with all beads hand-selected for beauty and quality. Carolyn Koslen Jewelry Design creates within the concepts of Sacred Geometry, with special attention to Love, Prosperity, Healing and Protection. Please think of Carolyn Koslen Jewelry Design as your Personal Jewelry Designer - Special requests are welcome and encouraged.

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Diamonds may be forever. But the price you paid for them may not.

Millions of American consumers who bought diamond rings or other diamond jewelry could be in for a sizable rebate thanks to the pending settlement of a series of class-action lawsuits that accused the giant De Beers diamond company of price-fixing and monopoly practices.

Now, there are a few “inclusions,” as they say in the diamond business. You must have purchased the diamond between 1994 and early 2006. You need a receipt or other proof of purchase price. And the amount of the rebate you ultimately receive depends on factors such as the value of your diamond and the total number of consumers who end up filing claims under the settlement. So don’t show this story to your friends.

But at the end of the day, you could get refunded 30 percent or more of the price you paid for that sparkling engagement ring.

Love truly is a many-splendored thing.

“This is nothing but good news for consumers,” said Peggy Jo Donahue, director of public affairs for Jewelers of America, a retailers association. “We know consumers love giving and receiving diamonds, and now those who have made diamond purchases in the past may have some money coming back to them.”

Notices of the proposed class-action settlement, which must still be approved by a federal judge in New Jersey in April, began appearing in national newspapers and magazines this month. Diamond buyers have until May 19 to file a claim by going to www.diamondsclassaction.com.

Under the settlement’s terms, De Beers, the South African mining conglomerate that controls 40 percent of the world’s diamond trade, has agreed to pay $295 million, which would be divided roughly in half between consumers and diamond merchants and resellers.

It doesn’t matter whether your diamond came from a De Beers mine in Namibia or a competitor in Russia or Canada — in fact, no one but a forensic scientist could even begin to try to figure out a diamond’s source.

The proposed settlement covers all diamonds, whether purchased at a jewelry store in Beverly in Chicago or Beverly Hills in Los Angeles. That’s because the class-action lawsuits alleged that De Beers, from its dominant position atop the world diamond market, conspired to fix, raise and control the prices of all diamonds — something many purchasers of the pricey carbon allotropes have long suspected.

De Beers officials are quick to point out that they are admitting no wrongdoing in agreeing to the proposed settlement, which is equivalent to roughly six months of the company’s earnings.

“Look, I’m not naive,” said David Prager, De Beers director of communications in London. “I’m fully aware of the perception that a lot of people have” that De Beers controls the price of diamonds. “But the facts are that it’s a very competitive industry.

“The confidence consumers have in their diamonds is the most important thing for us,” Prager added. “We haven’t accepted the allegations, but we decided to take this step to make sure that consumers still have confidence in the value of their diamonds.”

Translation: Just because you might be due a rebate on your diamond doesn’t mean you paid too much for it.

The settlement formula sets up a scale for determining the highest potential rebate a consumer could receive. For example, diamond jewelry that cost $1,000 to $5,499 would be eligible for a maximum rebate of 32 percent of the purchase price, with higher percentages for more costly diamonds and lower percentages for less expensive stones. On a $2,000 ring, that means you could get back a check for $640.

But don’t start dreaming about using your rebate to buy a new wide-screen TV — or another diamond — just yet. These carats come with a caveat: The more people who apply for a rebate, the less each individual will receive.

That’s because the consumer portion of the De Beers payout is capped at $135 million, minus up to 25 percent in fees due to the many law firms that brought the multiple class-action suits between 2001 and 2004.

The figure looks even smaller when compared to the total value of the diamonds sold in the U.S. during the 12-year period covered by the settlement: about $294 billion, according to Ken Gassman, a leading diamond industry analyst in Richmond, Va.

Working through the complicated math, that means that if every eligible diamond buyer makes a claim under the settlement, the rebates would amount to about one-tenth of a cent on the dollar. Which would mean just $2 back on that $2,000 ring.

About the diamond settlement

Under a proposed settlement of class-action lawsuits against the De Beers diamond company, consumers who bought diamonds between Jan. 1, 1994 and March 31, 2006, can apply for rebates.

Who’s eligible: Anyone who bought diamonds or diamond jewelry in the U.S. during the covered period.

Refunds: Payments could range from 6 percent to 59 percent of the retail price, depending on the value and type of jewelry. For example, diamond rings priced from $1,000 to $5,499 are eligible for a maximum 32 percent refund.

Summary of the Settlement

De Beers is the largest supplier of rough diamonds in the world. Beginning in 2001, Plaintiffs in several states filed lawsuits against De Beers in state and federal courts alleging that De Beers unlawfully monopolized the supply of diamonds, conspired to fix, raise, and control diamond prices, and issued false and misleading advertising. De Beers denies it violated the law or did anything wrong.

The Settlement Agreement provides that $22.5 Million be distributed to the Direct Purchaser Class, and that $272.5 Million will be distributed to the Indirect Purchaser Class. De Beers also agrees to refrain from engaging in certain conduct that violates federal and state antitrust laws and submit to the jurisdiction of the Court to enforce the Settlement.

The ‘Diamond Season’, an annual month-long promotional campaign organized in India by the De Beers Group Marketing (DBGM), has once again been a major driver of diamond jewelry sales in the country.

The promotion, held across six cities between December 12 and January 12, coincides with the Indian marriage season, one of the peak jewelry purchasing periods. It concluded with an awards ceremony in each of the participating cities, the first of which was held in Mumbai on Friday.

Prasad Kapre, the business director of DBGM said that there had been an estimated growth of 27 percent in Indian diamond consumption in 2007, with Mumbai recording an increase of 30 percent.

Earlier, Premjit Sengupta, regional business manager (east) of DBGM, told the media that Kolkata had registered a 35 percent growth in diamond consumption during the year.

The retailers who won awards in Mumbai were – Best Display: Notandas & Sons; Best Collection: Popley Eternal and Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (TBZ); Best In store Display: Ghanasingh Signature; Best Showroom: Mahesh Notandas and Anmol Jewellers; Best Window Display: Popley La Classic, Best Up-Coming jewelers: Jayesh Art Jewellery, S Girdharlal Adenwala and Anand Jaganath Pednekar; Best Shopping Experience: Mehta Emporium and Danabhai Pallazio; and Best Innovation: Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri (TBZ).

This 5th edition of the Diamond Season receievd enthusiastic response from retailers and consumers

Like every year, this year too, the annual Diamond Season organised by the DeBeers Group Marketing saw a successful response from both retailers and consumers. The season commenced on December 12, 2007 and drew to a close on January 12, 2008. Launched five years ago, the Diamond Season serves two objectives – help drive consumer demand during the traditionally low-sale period in December and January and boost morale amongst jewellery retail stores. Through extensive publicity, the season creates an atmosphere of thrill and anticipation about diamond jewellery amongst retailers and consumers. Incentives and award schemes for sales staff at participating stores and mystery shopping assessments further add to the excitement.

The Diamond Season also benefits the consumer – not only is awareness about what constitutes the quality of a diamond raised; the customer also gets to view some elite, contemporary and traditional designs. Over a period of 12 years, as diamonds are increasingly turning into a stone of choice for jewellwry, the diamond season further cements the consumer confidence in buying diamonds. This fact is amply proved by retailers who unanimously agree that participating in the Diamond Season has helped increase sales by nearly 50%.

Mr. Pritesh Desai says that customers increasingly look for visually appealing designs in their jewellery. To cater to demand for stunning designs with an international and workmanship, the season focused this on exclusive designer jewelry. jewellery stores across six cities – Mumbai, Delhi Calcutta, Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad flaunted their dazzling diamond wares, offering a visual treat the customers and attracting more walk-in customers. Striking window displays and promotional mail telephone campaigns further heightened the customer experience.

As diamonds steadily climb up the jewellery popularity chart, the Diamond Season successfully managed to raise the value of diamonds by several notches in the eyes of both the discerning Indian consumer and the jewelry retailer.

Istanbul is the only city in the world that stretches across two continents. Connecting Europe with Asia, the city straddles more than the Bosphorus River, it straddles cultures. As a child, Sevan Bicakci lived on a street with a church, mosque and temple – three different beliefs that serve as inspiration for the very enigmatic jewelry designer now known simply as Sevan.

“Where I am from, rings are the mirrors of the personality of the wearer. They tell all about the wearer,” says the imposing 35-year-old, speaking through an interpreter as he points out favorite pieces in the jewelry case at Stanley Korshak.

His calloused and burned hands seem too huge to finesse the delicate details that are the signature of his three-year-old label, but offer proof of the labor he devotes to each necklace, bracelet and ring.

Sevan began working as a jewelry model-maker at 17 in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. He developed a reputation as a skilled goldsmith and problem-solver, but spent most of his time producing commercial versions of work by other Turkish jewelers.

Everything changed six years ago when he set out to make a gift for his wife. “There is one sweetheart in life,” Sevan says. “If she’s going to wear a present from me, it should be a unique one.”

A ring was made – and a manifesto was born.

Inspired by the early 20th-century Arts and Crafts movement, Sevan rebelled against mass production. He began working with his brother and produced 30 rings the first year, throwing away more than he sold. Incorporating non-jewelry techniques, such as stained-glass and mosaic, into his work, Sevan earned a new reputation in the Grand Bazaar, this time inspiring other artisans to join him.

Today he oversees a team of 35 craftsmen, but produces only 400 one-of-a-kind pieces each year. A single ring, his specialty, can take from three months to a year to complete. The more laborious pieces involve micro-mosaic, a Sevan signature that may incorporate up to 12,000 pieces of ceramic tile or porcelain.

Reverse hand-carvings are another signature. Sevan personally carves each stone from underneath, depicting remarkably detailed, three-dimensional sculptures of whirling dervishes, the Virgin Mary, or even ladybugs.

The loss percentage is high, with eight to 10 stones ruined for each success. The gem’s interior is then painted and filled with clear enamel, before being set on an elaborately intricate band.

Sevan says the environment of Istanbul and its history propel his work. “I enjoy dreaming of myself as an Ottoman sultan, and sometimes I become his concubine or a Byzantine queen. The question then becomes, what would they wear if they lived now?”

Latter-day Byzantine queens Halle Berry, Tory Burch, Mary-Kate Olsen, Brooke Shields and Celine Dion are among those who wear his designs. And, he affirms, they pay retail. (Translation: from about $7,000 for a gold and sterling bracelet, to $58,000 for a ring with an Istanbul mosque carved into lemon topaz.)

“The Ottoman Renaissance never happened,” Sevan acknowledges, “but I like to think it is now.

“The ideas are new, but the techniques are old.”

World’s most prestigious jewelry award goes to Sevan Bicakci

Stating that competition between jewelry brands in the US market is very tough, Bicakci said that he produces only one piece of jewelry for each model range and this uniqueness allowed him to sell his work at places such as Hollywood Barneys as well as New York, Chicago and the Las Vegas Barneys. Bicakci also has a number of collectors across the world.

Istanbul-based jewelry designer Sevan Bicakci was chosen as the winner of the prestigious “Town & Country Couture” Design award, considered to be the Oscar of the jewelry world. He was given the award in a ceremony held in Las Vegas in Spring 2006.

Bicakci also received the Tanzania-based Tanzanite Foundation’s Celebration of Life Jewelry Design award for a ring in his ‘Door Collection’ in the Independent Designer category of the competition held in the United States this year, leaving world-renowned jewelry brands behind. The style of his award winning design is regarded as an invention in the jewelry world.

Bicakci said he participated in the competition at the invitation of the Tanzanite Foundation but he couldn’t even imagine how to take part in the competition due to the astronomical price of the ring’s stone. The rare and precious tanzanite stone in parliament blue was thus provided by the foundation.

Stating that competition between jewelry brands in the U.S market is very tough, Bicakci said that he produces only one piece of jewelry for each model range and this uniqueness allowed him to sell his work at places such as Hollywood Barneys as well as New York, Chicago and the Las Vegas Barneys. Bicakci also has a number of collectors across the world.

He said the awards and competitions weren’t so important for him, however, he highlighted the importance of taking part in such events in order to be recognized in the U.S.-dominated jewelry industry.

His work is comprised of portraits, statues, glass collections and his latest collection is called Bug and Sea Products. He that he has some ambitious projects and has worked for months on the designs, adding, My new works will turn the signature of Sevan Bicakci from the temperament of jelly to bone.

When it comes to designer Tom Binns’ jewelry, it’s more and more and—oh yeah, more.

This encrusted beauty, a “crystal garden cuff bracelet,” is low-key compared to many of the designs that have made Binns the beloved naughty boy of high fashion accessories.

His work mixes dripping skulls, rusty keys and broken “bits and baubles” of old costume jewelry with more precious items. It adorns the slim bodies in the chicest of glossy high end fashion spreads.

“I’m sort of undermining the previous notion of what’s fashion and what’s jewelry,” he told me. ‘A few old pieces of discarded junk and tie it around your neck.’ It’s a very simple equation.”

Binns describes his oeuvre as “alchemy.” “Turning junk into gold,” he calls it. You can almost imagine him, Rumpelstiltskin-like, jumping up and down with glee in his Venice, Cal. studio.

“I use a lot of old stuff and just rubbish and other peoples’ jewelry. Whatever comes to hand, really. I just go to flea markets, pick it off the street and just sort of reinvent it.”

Clothes on the runway today are “stupid” and “dull,” says Binns, but sling on “a fab piece of jewelry and you’re up and running. That’s what I’m trying to do.”

The bracelet shown here, reproduced in a New York factory from an original Binns created out of old junk jewelry, goes for nearly $1,000 at Neiman-Marcus. Other originals (Chicago’s Ikram boutique carries his line) can cost even more. Boasts Binns, who came to the U.S. from Northern Ireland some 20 years ago, “It’s going to get more expensive soon.”

Despite this cheek, Binns last year received the highest of accolades from the American fashion establishment. Yes, establishment. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) awarded him the prestigious Accessory Designer prize. He summarizes, “I recently have become part of the establishment but I’m the loose brick in the wall.”

How would you describe your personal style?

“I guess I’d describe it as kind of funky, kind of vintage. But modern, too. And most people wouldn’t think it, but when I get dressed, I try to be as comfortable as possible.”

You own Home Grown Bead & Candle Shoppe. When did you start making your own jewelry?

“I started probably in late grade school. Back then, I’d make jewelry out of seed beads – tiny glass beads – and use my dad’s fishing line to string them. And I’d make friendship pins for your tennis shoes, of course. It was the ’80s.”

What kind of jewelry have you been making lately?

“Lately, I’ve been making a lot of bracelets. But generally, I really try to find unusual and limited beads – not the kind you’re going to find everywhere. I’ve been using a lot of Peruvian pink opal lately. I like the different shapes, the different impurities that run through it. I ordered a few of them from a supplier of mine and after I saw them, I ordered as many as they would let me.”

Do you have a favorite piece of jewelry?

“I made a necklace out of paintbrush jasper. It’s a stone, a semi-precious stone. But I just like the roughness of the bead. And it’s kind of elegant because it’s a choker.”

Where do you like to shop for clothes?

“I do a lot of thrift shopping. That’s where I get most of my purses and bags. But – and I don’t know how fashionable it is – I love Target. Target is like thrift shopping for me, though, because I’ll find something I like and go back in two weeks when it’s on clearance. I also like St. Vincent de Paul and the Dupont-area Goodwill because it seems like a lot of people donate, but not many actually shop there.”

What are your wardrobe staples?

“I love to wear dresses. Dresses and skirts. And knee high socks – just because it gets cold and I hate pantyhose and tights. For a while I wore what I called my Amish lady socks. I’d gotten them at a farm grocery store in Shipshewana. And they were perfect – they hit right at the knee, and they looked like a sweater, a cable knit.”

Where do you find inspiration for your jewelry?

“This is going to sound really cheesy, but I subscribe to Home & Garden, just because I like the colors they use. I’ll flip through that and look for palettes. But I’ve been studying color for a while now, so I’ll use color wheels to find complementary colors or triads. You end up with colors you wouldn’t think would look good together, but they do. Brown mixed with turquoise and carnelian. That looks nice.”

Source

Turkey’s jewelry sector has grown significantly over the last 20 years, though competition from the East has brought along with it worries.

Istanbul Precious Minerals & Jewelry Exporters’ Association (IMMIB) President Atasay Kamer says Turkey’s jewelry sector has an annual processing capacity of 400 tons of gold and 300 tons of silver and is among the top five gold bar importers. Kamer says the economic value of this capacity is approximately $10 billion. Last year 239 tons of gold bar, worth $5.8 billion, were imported while 148 tons of processed gold, worth $3.7 billion, was exported, he said.

Processed gold exports are creating significant contributions to the Turkish economy, such as a high added value, jobs and tax revenue, Kamer said, adding that they expect imports to be around 200 tons and exports to increase by 50 percent.

He also said the jewelry sector employed 100,000 people in 1990, with current figures closer to 350,000. Small enterprises lead the industry, processing gold in traditional small workshops. Kamer estimates the number of these workshops at 10,000 with approximately 50,000 employees. He also states that there are 100,000 retail jewelry shops in Turkey that employ around 300,000.

These small enterprises do not employ professional managers and experts, leading to a lack of a professional structure and know-how and difficulties in the financing of operations.

Another issue Kamer brought attention to was the dependence on international gold prices, adding that Turkey is significantly behind in establishing a corporate culture and encouraging people to deposit their gold savings into banks in order to benefit from financial markets.

Competition is not far behind. Kamer says the number of rival countries in gold exports has increased. He said China and India in particular have boosted efforts to increase their market share in the global gold trade, leading to an increase in labor costs in Turkey. “This may cause a huge market share loss in exports,” he said, adding that the increase in excise tax imposed on precious stones like diamonds was another obstacle for the jewelry sector. High excise tax rates would reduce the competitiveness of the Turkish jewelry sector and force the market to move to Eastern countries, says Kamer.

Turkey’s Gold Jewelry Exports Reach $3.7 Billion

Atasay Kamer, President of the Istanbul Precious Minerals and Jewelry Exporters’ Association (IMMIB), notes that Turkey is among the top five gold bar importers worldwide. According to a report in Today’s Zaman, last year 239 tons of gold valued at $5.8 billion were imported and 148 tons of processed gold worth $3.7 billion were exported. Gold exports are expected to increase by 50%.

The Turkish jewelry sector currently employs about 350,000 people, with small enterprises leading the industry.

Turkey’s main competitors in gold exports are China and India. Kamer noted that the excise tax on precious stones, particularly diamonds, is another obstacle that is holding back the Turkish jewelry sector.

Turkey’s Gold Jewelry Exports Rise by 22.8%

Turkey’s gold jewelry exports rose by 22.8% between January and August of this year to $746.7 million. Exports during August alone soared by 62.7% to 10.3 tons.

The top markets for Turkey’s gold jewelry exports were the United Arab Emirates, the United States and Russia.

Although the United States remains the biggest export market, shipments to that country declined by almost 7% while exports to Russia, a new area for Turkish gold jewelry exports, increased by 61%.

Turkey’s gold jewelry exports dropped by over 20% to 85.8 tons in 2006.

When twenty-somethings Kirby and Lauren Krausgrill go to a club or hang out with their girlfriends, you can bet at some point they’ll sell jewelry off their ears and necks.

Mom makes their accessories, and they’re proud of it. While celebrating the New Year at chic Clift Hotel in San Francisco, Lauren sold her mother’s pearl-crystal tiara to a stranger in the elevator.

Lyndia Krausgrill’s Swarovski-encrusted creations were cool enough to catch the attention of In Style magazine. Two of her pieces are featured in the February issue: The gold-filled hoop earrings with Swarovski crystals that go for $90, and the drop style, which runs $88.

Krausgrill, 51, owns Lyndia K. Jewelry. She sells online at LyndiaK.com and exclusively in Bella at The Marketplace. She’s also sold her work in Laguna Beach and Oxnard.

Bella owner Heidi Sullivan was thrilled to see her store’s name mentioned in the In Style feature.

“When we travel and go to markets to buy for the store, we see similar jewelry to Lyndia’s, but hers has a little more unique twist,” she said.

The jeweler is enjoying a few recent turns in the limelight. Thanks to the magazine feature, she’s received at least six earring orders. Her designs were also featured in Women’s Wear Daily magazine.

Her daughters offered her jewelry to Nicole Scherzinger of the Pussycat Dolls, “American Idol” winner Jordin Sparks, Lauren Conrad from “The Hills” and other stars at a celebrity gifting spree during October’s 102.7 KIIS FM Homecoming Concert for Gwen Stefani in Anaheim.

“There was one celebrity, she’s a singer, she said, ‘Your mom’s jewelry is really dope,’” Lauren said. “It was pretty cute.”

A kitchen cabinet designer for the family business, Pacific Cabinet and Millworks, the artist got her start in 2001 when Lauren needed jewelry for her purple strapless prom dress, which Mom designed. Krausgrill made a large purple pearl cluster necklace with a matching bracelet.

Krausgrill has a room dedicated to beads in her Seven Oaks home. She started crafting when her children were teenagers.

“To be really honest with you, my children were quite a handful … ,” she said.

“They were really good kids, but it was kind of an escape for me. So I could go into my own little world and go, ‘OK, I want to remove myself from this right now.’”

Lauren and Kirby also model their mother’s work on her Web site. Lauren, 24, has racks of her mother’s jewelry. The Cal State Bakersfield student loves anything gold and sparkly, and often shows new outfits to her mother so she can create matching accessories.

Lauren’s college friend works for a Los Angeles public relations company and is helping to market Lyndia K. Jewelry. She helped Krausgrill get the jewelry to In Style and the staff liked it, Krausgrill said.

She uses silver, semi-precious stones, gold-filled material, Swarovski crystals and cultured pearls for her necklaces, earrings and belts, purchasing materials from the Internet and bead shows. Prices range from $30 to $1,200.

Her favorite piece is her Swarovski crystal belt. Inspiration comes not from other designers, but colors and forms she sees while out shopping.

“Say I’m in a dress store, in Bella’s, and I see they’ve put two colors together,” she said. “I sit down at bench and I add from there. It’s all in my head, a natural thing.”

Kirby, an aesthetician, sold two $78 necklaces, silver with purple pendants, at work.

“My old boss went crazy for it and so I sold it off myself, and two days later, her mom wanted one,” she said. “It’s just insane.”

A strand of pearls might be an old standard, but this classic accessory isn’t just for dressy occasions anymore. It’s time to dig out those strands your grandmother passed down to you, or, if your jewelry box is lacking pearls, it’s time to start shopping.

Just as there are classic pieces necessary for a pulled-together wardrobe, there should be a strand of pearls in every jewelry box.

And don’t worry about looking matronly — these days, pearls go with just about anything. A simple pair of post earrings or a dainty pearl bracelet works for everyday wear, and when it’s time for a more glamorous look, cascading pearls or even chandelier pearl earrings are both lovely and in vogue.

Still, the most popular pearl jewelry might be the single strand.

Many black pearls have been dyed. Jewelry author Renee Newman notes in her book “The Pearl Buying Guide” (International Jewelry Publications, $19.95) that dyed black pearls have been sold in fashionable stores as far back as the 1930s — long before black pearls were being commercially cultivated. “Dyed black pearls were considered elegant,” Newman writes.

Pearls signify purity — making them a traditional gift for brides, too — and giving each woman in the bridal party a necklace ties the group together with an accent piece that can be worn long after the dresses are stored away.

Pearl quality

There is no standardized system for grading pearl quality. But whether you’re looking for pearls to wear on your wedding day or for any day of the week, experts say there are several factors to consider when shopping:

• Avoid chalky-looking pearls that have a thin coating. Quality pearls are lustrous, so look for luster first.

One way to judge luster is to look for the “eye” (the point where the light reflects off the pearl). The deeper that eye is within the pearl’s surface, the higher the luster.

The best quality pearl has a luster that reaches around the pearl. A pearl that looks flat and grainy with an eye on the surface has a lower luster.

• Place the pearls on a white background to judge their true color. Other background colors could distort their true color. But, even white pearls come in shades of pink, gold, blue or green.

Today there are three main categories of pearls: Chinese freshwaters, Akoyas and South Sea.

• Chinese freshwaters are the least expensive and most common. They are cultured pearls (not naturally occurring) and come in round and other shapes.

• Akoyas are relatively expensive, pure white and perfectly round with a standard diameter of 7 millimeters.

• South Sea pearls come only in large sizes — 10 millimeters or more. To save money, buy baroque (irregularly shaped) South Sea pearls.

Know how to shop and care for pearls

Caring for your pearls

The American Gem Society reminds us that pearls, like all fine jewelry, require special care.

Pearls are exceptionally soft compared with other gems, so when they’re stored, they should be separated into their own cotton or silk pouch.

Chemicals present in hairspray or cosmetics can damage cultured pearls, so wait until you’re dressed and ready before putting them on. After wearing, wipe them with a soft cloth to remove your skin’s oils and salts.

Pearls might need to be restrung periodically to protect against breakage and possible loss.

How to clean pearls

In “Pearl Buying Guide,” author Renee Newman offers these tips for cleaning pearls (International Jewelry Publications, $19.95):

• Don’t use commercial jewelry cleaners on pearls unless the label says it’s safe for pearls. Many contain ammonia, which can damage pearls.
• Don’t clean pearls in an ultrasonic cleaner. It can damage them or even wash out the color in dyed pearls.
• Never steam-clean pearls as they can be harmed by heat.
• Don’t use detergents, bleaches, powdered cleansers or baking soda on pearls. Ditto with any abrasive material, such as a toothbrush or scouring pad, that can scratch their surface.
• Use a soft cloth or chamois to wipe pearls. That will prevent dirt from accumulating and keep perspiration, which is slightly acidic, from eating away at the pearl nacre.
• If they’re very dirty, pearls can be washed in water with a mild soap such as Ivory or Lux liquid. (But some liquid soaps, such as Dawn, can damage pearls.) After washing, lay the pearls in a moist kitchen towel to dry. When the towel is dry, they should be dry.

Do not wear pearls when their string is wet. Wet strings stretch and attract dirt, which is hard to remove.

Pearls in jewelry

The value of the pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of the luster, color, size, lack of surface flaw and symmetry that are appropriate for the type of pearl under consideration. Among those attributes, luster is the most important differentiator of pearl quality according to jewelers. All factors being equal, however, the larger the pearl the more valuable it is. Large, perfectly round pearls are rare and highly valued. Teardrop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants.

Pearls come in eight basic shapes: round, semi-round, button, drop, pear, oval, baroque, and circled. Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most valuable shape. Semi-rounds are also used in necklaces or in pieces where the shape of the pearl can be disguised to look like it is a perfectly round pearl. Button pearls are like a slightly flattened round pearl and can also make a necklace, but are more often used in single pendants or earrings where the back half of the pearl is covered, making it look like a larger, round pearl.

Drop and pear shaped pearls are sometimes referred to as teardrop pearls and are most often seen in earrings, pendants, or as a center pearl in a necklace. Baroque pearls have a different appeal to them than more standard shapes because they are often highly irregular and make unique and interesting shapes. They are also commonly seen in necklaces. Circled pearls are characterized by concentric ridges, or rings, around the body of the pearl.

In general, cultured pearls are less valuable than natural pearls, and imitation pearls are less valuable than cultured pearls. One way that jewelers can determine whether a pearl is cultivated or natural is to have a gem lab perform an x-ray of the pearl. If the x-ray reveals a nucleus, the pearl is likely a bead-nucleated saltwater pearl. If no nucleus is present, but irregular and small dark inner spots indicating a cavity are visible, combined with concentric rings of organic substance, the pearl is likely a cultured freshwater. Cultured freshwater pearls can often be confused for natural pearls which present as homogeneous pictures which continuously darken toward the surface of the pearl. Natural pearls will often show larger cavities where organic matter has dried out and decomposed.

Some imitation pearls are simply made of mother-of-pearl, coral or conch, while others are made from glass and are coated with a solution containing fish scales called essence d’Orient. Although imitation pearls look the part, they do not have the same weight or smoothness as real pearls, and their luster will also dim greatly.

There is also a unique way of naming pearl necklaces. While most other necklaces are simply referred to by their physical measurement, strings of pearls have their own set of names that characterize the pearls based on where they hang when worn around the neck. A collar will sit directly against the throat and not hang down the neck at all; they are often made up of multiple strands of pearls. Pearl chokers nestle just at the base of the neck. The size called a princess comes down to or just below the collarbone. A matinee of pearls falls just above the breasts. An opera will be long enough to reach the breastbone or sternum of the wearer, and longer still, a pearl rope is any length that falls down farther than an opera.

Necklaces can also be classified as uniform, or graduated. In a uniform strand of pearls, all pearls are classified as the same size, but actually fall in a range. A uniform strand of akoya pearls, for example, will measure within 0.5 mm. So a strand will never be 7 mm, but will be 6.5-7 mm. Freshwater pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls all measure to a full millimeter when considered uniform. A graduated strand of pearls most often has at least 3 mm of differentiation from the ends to the center of the necklace. Popularized in the 1950s by the GIs bringing strands of cultured akoya pearls home from Japan, the graduated style was much more affordable as most pearls in any given strand were small.

Earrings and necklaces can also be classified on the grade of the color of the pearl. While white and more recently black pearls are by far the most popular colors other tinges of color can be found on pearls. Pink, blue, champagne, green and even purple can be found, but to form a complete string of same size and shade pearls can take years. Some colors like purple can only be found in certain types of clams, while other clams can produce a variety of colors if given the right environment.