Dhyan Sherri exhibits her ancient-inspired treasures at Karats Dec. 21-23
In a jewelry market flooded with mass-produced trinkets from Asia, Dhyan Sherri stands out like a faithful lighthouse.
The artist from Maui does not send drawings of her jewelry designs overseas so natives can manufacture them for cheap. Nor does she create molds of her designs for uncountable reproductions.
In her quaint seaside studio, Sherri crafts one-of-a-kind pieces by hand using 22 karat gold and natural gem stones. Sherri creates art — and it just so happens you can wear it.
“In the past, jewelry was an art form that you had to be skilled. The first jewelers were craftsmen and metal smiths,” Sherri says. “You couldn’t come up with an idea and send it to China and have it massed produced. What I do brings jewelry back to a form of art.”
Sherri’s wearable art is on exhibit this weekend at Karats in Vail Village. She’ll be in the gallery to talk about her work and take commissions.
Jewelry lost part of its art element due to a couple of worldly developments. Lost-wax casting, for example, where you pour metal into molds, was used in ancient times by jewelry artists as a means of expression. In the Industrial Age, the technique became a means of production. Jewelry could be made in large numbers at a low cost to buyers using machines, removing the need for artists. In the 21st century, the jewelry industry began outsourcing labor to underdeveloped countries, and artists were again cut out of the picture.
“Because of this, there were people who got involved in jewelry that weren’t artists. They come up with one idea and the next thing you know, they’re going into business,” Sherri says.
Sherri studied jewelry making and design at Parsons School of Design and Jewelry Arts Institute in New York City. She’s schooled as a contemporary jeweler. She understands all the modern methods, but finds them very strict and limiting. She prefers the visceral experience of shaping jewelry by hand and using rustic tools like heat and a hammer to create adornments that are reminiscent of the past. She extended her formal training to learn and master ancient jewelry-making.
“I think contemporary jewelry making is for a personality who likes to be precise and really square. I am more of a flowing personality,” Sherri says. “Ancient jewelry is not about being precise and tight and angular. It’s about going with a piece and letting what happens, happen. That’s the fun of it. If everything was planned out and controlled, I would be bored. Things happen as you work the piece and that is the beauty of real art work.”
‘Mimicking waves’
There is a flowing, water element to all Sherri’s jewelry. The borders of her cuffs and bangles are not straight but curved, mimicking waves. The Curl Earrings in her Flintstone collection are like soft, falling leaves.
Most of her work is kissed with intricate filigree work, a technique that’s become a signature look for Sherri. Filigree is done by heating 22 karat gold with a torch and then using the torch like a paint brush to fuse together separate shapes. She uses the technique to create ancient symbols on her jewelry, like an OM dangle on her earrings or a Celtic clasp on her wrap necklaces. Sherri is inspired by ancient cultures.
One ancient image she uses repeatedly throughout her work is the snake.
“One of the most famous images is the snake biting its own tail,” Sherri says. “Called Ouroboros, from ancient Egypt in 1600 BC, it represents the wheel of time, the circular nature of the way things are. I can relate to that, over time things come back to the original source.”
Lately, Sherri’s inspiration arrives from above — the starry Hawaiian sky. She’s created a whole collection of Constellation jewelry, using diamonds and sapphires to map out the stars. Rather than fuse together a gold Taurus symbol with filigree, for example, she forms the beast’s constellation using gem stones.
Her first Constellation piece was designed especially for a client. Sherri wanted the jewelry to have special meaning, so she mapped out Aquarius, the woman’s Astrology sign on a thick cuff. Sherri also added symbols that were in the Hawaiian sky during the time of the piece’s creation. A big diamond represents the full moon.
“That’s the direction I’m headed. I want to personalize the jewelry. My hope is that more people will come to me with their specific design,” Sherri says.
During her exhibit, Sherri will take commissions by appointment only. In the past, people have requested her to re-set old stones, drawing personally meaningful symbols with the gold. Sherri can also suggest which gem stones would be most powerful to you.
Dhyan Sherri’s designs and handmade 22k gold jewelry are made on Maui Hi. Each piece of jewelry is hand fabricated by Dhyan herself from high karat gold maintaining a direct relationship between herself and her clients. Ancient symbols, styles and techniques are used in combination with gem stones, beads and pearls to enhance the individual style of each person.
Dhyan Sherri about herself
Through out history jewelry has held many different functions and meanings. Amulets and talismans used symbolic designs and colored stones to represent religious belief, myth and magic. Not only symbolic in nature, jewelry has been considered ornamental and practical. A good example of practical jewelry is the signet ring. Having originated from the Egyptian Scarab ring, the seal ring was used to show ownership and identification. Jewelry has also been symbolic of wealth, rank, social standing and used in marketable value for trade.
Historically jewelry was made of natural metals, such as gold, silver and brass and natural stones. These materials have held their value based on availability. Synthetic stones and cultured pearls were introduced to the market at the end of the seventeenth century by the French bourgeoisie, making jewelry affordable to the working class, while maintain standards of value. Innovations introduced by the American manufactures created costume jewelry made of less valuable materials such as glass and plastic.
The first jewelers were multi skilled craftsmen and metal smiths. Each piece was made by hand, fabricated directly, shaped out of the metal and stones. As time progressed the craft of the jeweler became more skill specific and casting rather then hand fabrication became more common in the market. Jewelers became technicians to Designers. With the coming of the twenty first century came outsourcing to underdeveloped countries. Cheap labor has replaced the skills of higher waged craftsmen and artists.
Man made materials, mass production and cheap labor has made jewelry more accessible to the masses. It is in my opinion that with more accessibility and lower valued jewelry on the market, jewelry handmade by the designer in natural materials has increased in the value.
My jewelry is designed and made by myself in 22k gold with natural stones on Maui, HI. Synthetic stones are “only ” used upon request of my clients. I hand fabricate my work with the exceptional cast bead or finding such as earring post.
I enjoy working directly with my clients, creating a one of a kind piece of art. Most of the time I provide the gems stones while offering the opportunity for clients to bring their own stones into my designs.
I design and finish my gold with the characteristics of pure gold in mind. All the wear and tear that occur while wearing jewelry are considered in my designs to enhance the ancient look. I leave the metal mat finished deliberately so that over time the oils from your body will naturally polish the gold (never a high polish).
Originally from NYC I moved to Maui, HI in 1996.
I began my formal studies of fine art, contemporary and ancient jewelry in 1981.
I studied at Parsons School of Design and Jewelry Arts Institute in NYC. I worked on the bench of 47th street NYC and apprenticed with various jewelry designers and gold smiths in New York. Before moving to Maui in 1996 I lived and traveled to Japan and south east Asia for 4 years.
In 1997, I opened my own studio/gallery to the public. Where people are invited to watch me hammer and shape my creations.
Currently I live and work on Maui, HI and do private and gallery shows on the mainland USA.