Gems Log

Most holiday shoppers aren’t thinking of the investment value of what they are buying.

But William P. from the Boston area figures that as long as he’s shopping for jewelry for his wife — she’ll celebrate her 30th birthday on Christmas Eve, a week before the couple’s fifth wedding anniversary — he might as well keep the portfolio in mind.

“This is something I want to do, but we’re also young and there’s no doubt that we could use the money for other things,” he wrote in an e-mail.

“I was going to put a few more dollars into the 401(k), but now I am thinking that I will use the money to pay for the diamond earrings. Diamond prices keep going up, so if we ever really need the money, we could cash them in for a little profit. … I’m not so sure I could buy a stock and be so sure it will be worth more the same way I can with diamonds.”

Alas, William and many other shoppers who overspend on diamonds because of the jewels’ investment value are making a Stupid Investment of the Week.

Stupid Investment of the Week highlights flawed thinking that leads average consumers to make less-than-ideal financial decisions; the column is not intended as a sell signal, and it would hardly work as one in the case of diamonds, where the financial outlay is typically laced with emotion. Those emotions — and not investment prospects — are precisely the right reasons to buy jewels.

“There are many places where you can put your money where your returns are more immediate and much greater,” says Antoinette Matlins, author of “Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide.”

As an investment in emotion — love, hope, faith, commitment, romance, and trust, to name a few — diamonds may provide a terrific return, albeit not a monetary one.

But try to cash in a diamond for a profit and you have all sorts of potential for trouble.

While returns are hard enough to predict in most investments, they are nearly impossible to figure for diamonds.

Diamonds are appraised and graded, but prices move based on consumer sentiment.

While the grading systems are based on set standards — so that a dozen experts looking at the same stone should draw identical conclusions on carats, color, cut and clarity — there is a lot of wiggle room.

Gemologists say that buyers frequently pay for grades, without knowing where the stone falls in the spectrum of the mark. From an investment standpoint, that’s like coming up with a fair-market value without ever being able to look at precise financials. A little swing either way can dramatically change the potential profit or loss.

As a result, diamonds face inestimable “dealer risk,” the potential to get fleeced by an unscrupulous dealer. (Even in collectibles meant for investment, like coins, dealer risk poses a big potential problem.)

“Pricing risk” is also a part of the equation. If you buy a diamond at three times the true wholesale price you’ll have no shot of selling it at that price for a decade or more. Diamonds do hold their value well — so long as the stone is real, it’s not going to zero like a company headed for bankruptcy.

Next, there is liquidity risk. While stones retain their value, you won’t have a lot of bargaining power if you must sell to raise cash.

Dealers who buy jewelry don’t pay retail, and the nation’s pawn shops are full of expensive gems that were turned in for a lot less cash than they were purchased for.

And because emotion generally is attached to a jewelry purchase, it can be mighty hard to part with under the best of circumstances; if William P. ever gets overdrawn on the credit cards, chances are the earrings won’t be the first thing jettisoned to ease the burden of bills.

In the late 1970s, diamonds boomed as sellers suggested that diamonds would replace gold as a safe investment option; buyers snapped up stones thinking they would hold their value, and prices skyrocketed.

The bottom fell out in 1981, and while jewel prices have risen at a slow, steady pace ever since, the buyers who thought they were getting a gem of an investment still couldn’t sell those stones at a profit.

Since that time, most people have looked at gems more as gifts than investments. Recent price increases, coupled with the current stock market’s current volatility, seem to be priming the investment pump again.

Matlins says that would be a mistake. Focus on what the gift means, not what it might be worth to some future buyer.

“It’s nice to do something for pleasure, that’s very romantic and very sentimental, but that also retains its value,” she says.

“There are a lot of values attached to buying jewelry that go beyond the money. And it’s better than giving her a car, where the value will be going down every day. But if you’re looking at this as an investment in anything other than your relationship or your family, you’re probably going to be frustrated if you ever really need to cash it in.”

Diamonds mining investors losing sparkle in Australia

While diamonds are a girl’s best friend, the precious stone is failing to attract the interest of investors during an unprecedented boom in the resources sector.

Flinders Diamonds managing director Kevin Wills said diamond explorers were finding it hard to raise equity and get the market interested in the commodity.

“Diamond exploration in Australia in 2007 is at a low ebb,” Mr Wills said.

“While other commodities are booming the same cannot be said about diamonds.

“Today’s exploration is dominantly by junior companies and, as diamonds are not flavour of the month at present, it is difficult to get the market excited about most company’s activities.

“This makes it hard to raise equity funds.”

Flinders is exploring for diamonds in Western Australia, South Australia and the Northern Territory.

Mr Wills said there had been a gradual downturn in exploration in Australia during the past 10 years, despite a worldwide diamond shortage and increasing prices.

“Most major diamond explorers have either pulled out of Australia or considerably downsized their exploration activities,” Mr Wills said.

“This has resulted in the total exploration spend being well below a level where significant discoveries are likely to be made.”

Mr Wills said a major discovery would reinvigorate Australia’s floundering diamond industry.

“One thing that does attract explorers, like bees to a honeypot, is a significant discovery,” Mr Wills said.

“This has happened in Canada since their discoveries in the 1990s and much of the world’s spare diamond exploration cash has headed northwards.”

No country can claim a jewelry tradition more robustly entrenched than India’s. On the Bollywood red carpet, and at any respectable Indian wedding, it is commonplace to see women staggering beneath lavish burdens of gold -22-karat bangles stacked along their arms, bell-like jhumka ear ornaments weighing down their lobes, chokers strung with gem-set triangles dangling from the neck.

At the turn of the past century, Western jewelers frequently adopted Indian motifs - peacocks, lotus flowers and other images redolent of mosques and Mogul treasures - as the Pax Britannica freed India’s ruling elites from more pressing concerns, allowing them to indulge their penchant for baubles from the finest ateliers of Europe.

The trend reached its zenith in the 1930s with Cartier’s extraordinary commissions for the maharajahs, for whom it fashioned extravagant parures incorporating antique stones from the royal treasuries. The jewels, assembled in Paris, ushered in a style that Cartier nicknamed “Tutti Frutti” for its exuberant combinations of ruby, sapphire and emerald beads set in floral compositions.

After India gained independence in 1947, however, the orders dried up and Western designers found new muses. For decades, the look was simply too ethnic to play on the postwar, postindustrial, postmodern fashion stage.

Suddenly, inspired by India’s star turn on the global scene, jewelry connoisseurs are again citing the country’s 5,000-year-old design heritage, newly co-opted by a rising cohort of luxury jewelers besotted with traditional Indian craftsmanship and locally sourced precious stones.

Cartier, for one, has come full circle with its “Inde Mysterieuse” collection, introduced in September at a glitzy event in London, where 300 meters, or nearly 1,000 feet, of organza ribbon, 1,500 meters of Indian fabrics and 2,000 meters of wood helped to transform the neo-Classical Lancaster House into a sumptuous Rajput palace. So convincing was the decor that one could almost see Sir Bhupinder Singh, the maharajah of Patiala, strolling through the house adorned with the Patiala necklace, a platinum and diamond bib that he commissioned in 1928, the most impressive necklace ever made by Cartier.

Of 82 pieces in the new collection, a platinum and diamond neckpiece anchored by a 63.66-carat pear-cut diamond might be the Patiala’s closest runner-up.

“It’s worth about €10 million,” or $14.6 million, said Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s image, style and heritage director.

Most of the unique pieces - although not the platinum and diamond collar - sold out within days, Rainero said. Cartier will reproduce 48 of the designs at prices ranging from €40,000 to €550,000.

In the rarefied luxury market of today, which prizes exclusivity above all, “style is about having fewer things and having those things be one of a kind and crafted by designers who don’t belong to the mainstream,” said Paola De Luca, creative director of Trends Jewellery Forecasting, a consultancy and magazine based in Arezzo, Italy.

In search of authenticity, sophisticated clients are patronizing Indian jewelers who have built a reputation abroad. “So many of our customers are keen to embrace Indian jewelry,” said Nathalie Kabiri, owner of Kabiri, a jewelry boutique in the Marylebone district of London, “because it seems they’re helping to keep a tradition alive.”

Kabiri’s new concession at Selfridges department store devotes prime showcase space to Amrapali of Jaipur, a manufacturer based in the Rajasthani capital, the hub of the Indian colored stone industry. The company’s ornate necklaces, encrusted with shallow rose-cut diamonds, and Bakelite cuffs studded with red spinels, a Mogul favorite, are a hit in Hollywood, Paris, Moscow and of course Mumbai.

“Indian consumers want 22-karat gold, but for the international market we do 18-karat and we make it daintier,” Tarang Arora, son of Amrapali’s owner, Rajiv Arora, said. “We try to take old Indian ethnic designs and contemporize them.”

Synthesizing traditional motifs without sacrificing a 21st-century sensibility is Viren Bhagat’s forte. The 50-year-old designer, favored by Mumbai’s high society for his fusion of art deco and Mogul styles, is an auction house darling. “You look at it and you know Viren made it,” said Rahul Kadakia, head of jewelry at Christie’s New York, where a pair of Bhagat earrings composed of diamonds cut to resemble lotus petals came up for sale in October.

Estimated at $50,000, they sold for $85,000.

Another guru of Indian craftsmanship is Munnu Kasliwal - the eighth-generation designer behind the Gem Palace, a gem wholesaler and retailer in Jaipur, founded in 1852.

Kasliwal employs uniquely Indian techniques like “kundan,” in which gems are encased in ribbons of pure 24-karat gold, to fashion golden jhumkas strung with Burmese rubies, like tiny gem-set parasols, and navratna turtle brooches with nine gemstones, evoking the Hindu belief that the world rests on the back of an elephant standing atop a turtle.

The details extend to the backs of designs, many decorated in paisley patterns of red and green meena, or enamel, because it’s “not only about what others see but what the body sees and feels as well,” Kasliwal said.

A Kasliwal protege, the Parisian jeweler Marie-Helene de Taillac, says the defining moment in her career came on a 1996 trip to Jaipur, when she toured the Gem Palace workshop.

“I was especially fascinated by the stonecutting unit,” she said. “It was the first time I saw such quality.”

At the behest of a Japanese friend and store owner, De Taillac asked Kasliwal if she could design a small collection using his stones and craftsmen. The pieces sold immediately - to Colette in Paris, which had not yet even opened, Browns in London, Barneys New York and in Japan, at all 30 of her friend’s stores.

Many designers have since followed, quite literally, in De Taillac’s footsteps. Caroline Dadlani, from Miami, regularly travels to Jaipur and Gujarat state, where she stays with a family that specializes in delicate filigree work, a hallmark of her collection.

“I meet a lot of people who end up having to manufacture in Thailand, but I know I would never do that,” Dadlani said. “I don’t think anyone outside of India could do the techniques.”

One of the first U.S. designers to recognize the appeal of Indian style was Robin Renzi of Me & Ro, based in New York. Eleven years ago, when she first visited the Chandni Chowk market in Delhi, she stumbled on rose-cut diamonds, a quintessentially Indian cut introduced in the early 16th century. A lightly faceted diamond with a flat bottom, a rose-cut stone looks twice as large as a brilliant-cut diamond but lacks its symmetry and piercing sparkle.

“With brilliants, they cut away the imperfections to create an illusion of perfection,” she said. “These were much more natural and less flashy.”

Now, rose-cut stones and their understated look have become ubiquitous, and Renzi is on to the next new thing.

“I went to Delhi to look for ’slats,’ ” she said. “They look like glass; they’re completely flat and are even more extreme than rose cuts. It’s a diamond and you wouldn’t even know it. I have to buy them all, because I don’t want anyone else to have them.”

A Golden Opportunity for India’s Jewelers

It’s not just India’s drugmakers that are taking export lessons from the country’s software industry. In the Bombay suburb of Andheri, home to the city’s diamond and jewelry free-trade zone, 80 manufacturers of earrings, wedding bands, necklaces, and bracelets are gearing up for a boom in sales abroad. The reason? After years of lobbying by New Delhi, the U.S. has lifted its 5.7% tariff on finished jewelry from India. While India has long been a major processor of cut diamonds — the country exported nearly $8 billion worth in 2002 — makers of finished jewelry are polishing up their operations to take advantage of the tariff reduction.

Things are changing fast in Andheri. As recently as a year ago, the 15,000 factory hands spent their days lined up at long tables working with tiny gems and small, inexpensive settings, which required little skill and didn’t add much profit to the factory owners’ bottom line. Now, they’re working with larger stones, creating more complex settings, using newer equipment — and pumping up the industry’s profits. Intergold India Ltd., whose $100 million in sales make it India’s largest exporter of diamonds and jewelry, has for years placed stones in settings at factories in Mexico and New York, where labor costs are higher but where there are no tariff barriers. Now, Bombay-based Intergold plans to move 40% of its production to India within two years, saving the company up to $1 million annually. “Finally, it has become economical to do it out of India,” says Amar Kothari, Intergold’s sales director in Bombay.

India’s 2,500 diamond exporters are making big plans to expand into finished jewelry, too. On news of the tariff removal in August, diamond cutter Suraj Diamonds & Jewellery upped its sales projections for this year by 50%, to $40 million. And Shishir Nevatia of Bombay’s Sunjewel Ltd., a pioneer of the jewelry exporting business in India, invested $3 million in a new, 1,000-square-meter factory in Andheri in anticipation of a 30% increase in sales this year thanks to the new tariff regime. “This is a great opportunity for India to grow its wallet,” says Biju Patnaik, who handles loans to India’s jewelry companies for Dutch bank ABN Amro.

The shift should help Indian jewelers fend off growing competition. Other big jewelry-exporting nations, including Thailand, already enjoy tariff-free exports to the U.S. And many Indian jewelers fear that China will become a factor. From 1997 to 2001, Chinese jewelry exports to the U.S. doubled to $712 million, according to the U.S. Commerce Dept. If the current U.S. tariff of up to 6.6% on Chinese jewelry drops because of the country’s membership in the World Trade Organization, exports from China could soar. For now, though, the Indian industry’s prospects are glittering like never before.

The Dubai International Jewellery Week, the new format of the country’s largest such exhibition, opened Tuesday. Some 300 exhibitors are showcasing their goods to a crowd consisting of wholesalers, retailers and many consumers.

The show’s new format combines three shows that had run separately in the past: the luxury show Areeq Dubai, the retail show Jewellery Collections Dubai, and the trade show Jewellery Trade Dubai.

The largest of the three, Jewellery Collections Dubai, was heavily dominated this week by private consumers with varied tastes and interests, seeking to buy directly from diamond and jewelry wholesalers.

Exhibitors reported inquires for high color loose diamonds in clarities of VS+, usually for diamonds weighing over a carat. However at the same time, many exhibitors reported interest only in finished jewelry. In those cases, inquires focused on items set with smaller goods of SI quality.

In terms of design, buyers sought out rings with large abstract shapes and big heavy necklaces with very ornate designs. In both cases the jewelry was set with baguette cut diamonds. In general, fancy shapes were far more popular than round cuts.

Exhibitors showcasing animal-oriented designs – tigers, snakes, lions and birds were the most common – also saw a lot of interest. These designs were heavily set with diamonds and other precious stones.

Dubai Jewelry Industry Leaders Meet with Saudi Counterparts to Discuss Cooperation

Leaders of the Dubai jewelry industry met recently in Jeddah with their Saudi counterparts. On the agenda were discussions of cooperation and mutual partnerships with the aim of promoting regional trade.

Senior members of the Dubai Multi Commodities Center (DMCC), International Diamond Laboratories (IDL) and the Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE) met with the President of the Saudi Jewelers Committee as well as leaders of the Saudi jewelry industry to discuss cooperation options.

Saudi gold and jewelry consumption is estimated to exceed $7.2 billion annually, making Saudi Arabia a crucial market. “Considering that Saudi Arabia accounts for 70% of the region’s diamond jewelry market, cooperation between Dubai and Saudi Arabia is clearly vital,” said Youri Steverlynck, CEO, DDE. “By creating new synergies, we can further enhance the regional diamond market and, in the process, increase the level of confidence in the diamond market among both retailers and consumers.”

2008 World Jewelry Confederation Congress to be Hosted by Dubai

The 2008 Congress of the World Jewelry Confederation (CIBJO) will be held in Dubai and is to be hosted by the Dubai Multi Commodities Center (DMCC). The event is scheduled for April 14-16, 2008.

This is the first time that the congress is to be held in the Middle East. According to a statement from CIBJO, the choice of Dubai for this gathering of jewelry trade organizations and professionals “comes in recognition of the emirate’s increasingly central role on the global jewelry stage.”

Among the expected participants are members of the international jewelry trade as well as UN and governmental representatives.

“The CIBJO Congress is the leading event of its kind in the world, and we are delighted to hold next year’s meeting in Dubai, which is rapidly emerging as an international capital for the jewelry trade,” said CIBJO President Dr, Gaetano Cavalieri. “Together with DMCC, we will ensure that the event is a great success, generating even further attention to the important role Dubai plays in the global jewelry trade.”

Gem & Jewelry Academy to Open in Dubai

An initiative by the UAE-based ARY Group, the ARY Academy of Gems & Jewellery, will be established in Dubai and will open its doors on January 5. The academy will provide extensive education and training in all aspects of the gold and precious metals trade.

It will also offer various certificates and diploma courses in the design, manufacture, assaying and management of gems and jewelry, geared to support the growth and transformation of the gold and jewelry trade in the area.

Programs offered at the institution will cover various aspects of Gemology, Jewelry Design, Gem & Jewelry Management and Business Administration.

The initiative is recognized by the Knowledge Village in Dubai, a learning community established as part of a long-term economic strategy to develop the region’s talent pool and accelerate its move into a knowledge-based economy.

“The region has been witnessing tremendous growth in per capita consumption of gold and jewelry, increase in the number jewelry retail outlets, and employment opportunities in this sector,” noted Academy CEO Sarwat Abdul Razzak. “It is imperative that such a growing industry gets the support of qualified and trained personnel in all aspects of the trade.”

The sale of Burmese gems has become the target of a growing boycott following the violent crackdown of pro-democracy protesters in Burma in September. While Burma’s ruling military government holds another gem auction, the market for those precious stones is getting smaller. As VOA’s Kane Farabaugh reports from New York, more and more jewelry retailers in America are refusing to sell Burmese gems.

The people who mine them call the coloring of these precious stones “pigeon-blood” red.

Thomas Moses, who works for the Gemological Institute of America, or GIA, knows the value and uniqueness of these gems, which come from only one place in the world. “Historically, Burma rubies were one of the most sought after gems in the gem and mineral kingdom,” he tells us.

Throughout the years, Moses says, Burma was generally not a major exporter of the precious rubies. That changed in 1991 when a new deposit was discovered in the eastern part of the country. “Burma today is probably the largest producer of commercial quality rubies that are in the marketplace.”

A 2003 law bans the sale of Burmese gems in America. But a loophole in the law has kept those gems in the marketplace says Peggy Jo Donahue of the Jewelers of America. “As long as a gem is cut in Thailand, for example, or in India, it is not considered a product anymore of Burma. Technically I guess you could say Burmese gems legally could be here if they were cut and polished in a different place,” she says.

The Jewelers of America felt that the loophole did not follow the spirit of the legislation, designed to keep money from the sale of those gems out of the hands of the Burmese military government. They also discovered many jewelers knew little about the ban.

“I spoke to jewelers who never knew of a Burmese ban of any kind,” says Donahue. “Our consciousness was raised as an industry by the events that we saw taking place in August and September, and then the sense that we had that gemstones that we knew came from Burma, therefore we needed to do something about it.”

The Jewelers of America now educates its members, encouraging them to support the ban by not selling the gems in their stores.

Tiffany and Company as well as Cartier are two of several major jewelers that have signed on to the effort. First lady Laura Bush, an outspoken critic of the Burmese government, issued a statement last week applauding companies who support the ban.

As more jewelers sign on, demand increases to identify the origin of rubies in the marketplace. It’s a service Donna Beaton with the GIA helps provide to customers. “There’s a hierarchy of value that has been established in the trade already, so people want to know where it comes from hoping it comes from a premiere source. So in the case of rubies, Burma is a premiere source,” says Beaton.

Since the need to verify the origin now goes beyond just the value of the gem, GIA uses the latest technology to leave little doubt as to where a ruby in question comes from.

Wuyi Wang is a Research Project Manager with GIA. He uses high-powered lasers to cut microscopic pieces of a gem, which is then used to determine its chemistry. “You will see some difference between Burmese rubies and rubies from other locations, like from Vietnam for example,” he explains. “There are quite systematic differences, either gemological features including color, inclusions, as well as their chemistry.”

GIA expects an even greater demand for its services if further legislation banning the import of gems, regardless of where they were cut or polished, becomes law. That legislation is currently under consideration in the U.S. Congress.

House OKs bill to boycott Burma’s gems

The House approved a bill Tuesday meant to stop Burma’s rubies and high- quality jade from entering the United States. The bill tightens already tough sanctions against a ruling military junta that killed peaceful pro-democracy protesters and Buddhist monks in September.

The House bill would freeze assets by Burma’s leaders and cut off tax deductions for U.S. companies working in Burma, also known as Myanmar. It attempts to stop Burma from dodging U.S. sanctions through laundering gemstones in third countries before selling them in the United States.

“Burma’s generals fund this repression of their own people by selling off the country’s natural resources, especially oil and gems, leaving the Burmese people in poverty,” Democratic Rep. Tom Lantos, chairman of the House Foreign Affairs Committee, said in a statement. Tightened sanctions would “ensure that the United States stands up to these thugs.”

To avoid U.S. sanctions, the Burma regime tries to hide the origin of the gemstones it ships to the U.S. according to the bill, which passed by voice vote: “For example, over 90% of the world’s ruby supply originates in Burma, but only 3% of the rubies entering the United States are claimed to be of Burmese origin.”

The bill would also stop Burma’s leaders from using U.S. financial institutions in third countries to launder their money. Officials involved in the crackdown would be banned from getting U.S. visas, as would their families. The bill would also cut off tax deductions for U.S. companies working in Burma.

Similar legislation has been introduced in the Senate.

In August, thousands of Buddhist monks joined rallies against a fuel price increase. The junta began shooting and arresting protesters in September. Dissident groups put the death toll at about 200. Rights groups have reported continued arrests and abuse, despite claims by the junta that the crackdown has stopped.

Burma has been under military rule since 1962. The current junta came to power after snuffing out a 1988 pro-democracy movement against the previous military dictatorship, killing at least 3,000 people in the process.

Burma’s natural resources are coveted by its neighbors and by large companies around the world.

Burmese Blood Diamonds and Gems?

ABC News’ Jennifer Duck Reports: First Lady Laura Bush spoke out again on Myanmar, also known as Burma, this time applauding Tiffany, Cartier and the Jewelers of America for standing against the importation of Burmese gems.

Mrs. Bush says the sale of gems is the regime’s third largest source of revenue.

“These funds prop up the regime, allowing it to continue to harass, arrest, and sentence peaceful activists who seek freedom of speech, worship, and assembly,” she said in a paper statement.

The First Lady recently told ABC News’ Martha Raddatz that she was first aware of the human rights violations in the country when her cousin, who is an advocate for Myanmar, told Mrs. Bush the story of Ang San Suu Kyi, a Burmese activist, who has been under house arrest on and off for 18 years.

Thousands of monks began protesting in August of this year, and that’s when the First Lady decided to speak out.

“It was when we were at the ranch and, of course, a lot of people in government are gone during the month of August and I became more and more worried as I read these different dispatches because no one was speaking out,” Mrs Bush told Raddatz in an interview last month.

In addition to asking jewelers worldwide not to purchase Burmese gems, the First Lady is also urging consumers to choose their gems wisely.

“Consumers throughout the world should consider the implications of their purchase of Burmese gems. Every Burmese stone bought, cut, polished, and sold sustains an illegitimate, repressive regime,” Mrs Bush said in her statement.

US renews pressure on Burma junta

US President George W Bush has called on world leaders to increase pressure on Burma’s rulers, as US officials moved to ban imports of Burmese gems.

Mr Bush, reacting to a UN report that confirmed at least 31 people died in a recent crackdown, said there could be no “business as usual” with the junta.

He said the US would lead efforts to place more sanctions on the regime.

Meanwhile US lawmakers have voted to stop Burma’s rubies and high-quality jade from entering the United States.

The measure, passed by the House of Representatives, tightens sanctions against the junta by attempting to stop gem dealers from laundering their goods in third countries before they enter the US.

The bill, which must be approved by the Senate and president, also tries to stop Burmese leaders using US banks to launder money in third countries.

Democratic Rep Tom Lantos said in a statement: “Burma’s generals fund this repression of their own people by selling off the country’s natural resources, especially oil and gems, leaving the Burmese people in poverty.”

He added that tightened sanctions would “ensure that the United States stands up to these thugs”.

UN findings

Mr Bush, who already imposed tough sanctions against the junta in October, pledged further action after a new UN report shed light on the scale of repression in Burma.

Illicit Burmese trade

The UN’s human rights envoy, Paulo Sergio Pinheiro, said at least 31 people had died as the ruling generals sought to regain control after a wave of peaceful protests swept the country in September.

“Mr Pinheiro’s report demonstrates why the world cannot go back to business as usual with [Burma's leader] Gen Than Shwe and his junta,” Mr Bush said in a statement.

“I call on all members of the international community to condemn the atrocities detailed in Mr Pinheiro’s report in the strongest possible terms.”

If this Christmas you plan on buying an engagement ring or a piece of jewelry for the first time, there are a few things you should know before stepping up to a glass-enclosed counter, experts say.

Terri Hurley, owner of Bo’s Jewelry and Pawn Shop in Sikeston, said she’s been showing lots of wedding sets and engagement bands this month.

“It’s a time of year people tend to upgrade (their jewelry) as well as get engaged, and diamonds are a neat Christmas gift,” Hurley said.

According to Conde Nast American Wedding Study, 15 percent of engagements happen in December, making the month one of the busiest of the year for jewelry shoppers.

“This is really a busy time of year for jewelry retailers, with a lot of first-time buyers making big purchases, but it can go much more smoothly if the consumer is well educated about the process,” said Susan Eisen, an accredited senior appraiser and master gemologist appraiser with the American Society of Appraisers, in a news release.

Tami Heavener, supervisor of fine jewelry at JC Penney in Sikeston, said she’s also witnessed a surge in ring purchases this month.

“We have had several men come in and say they want an engagement ring but have no clue what size, whether they want white gold or yellow gold or solitaire or clusters,” Heavener said.

Have a dollar amount in mind, Heavener said. Don’t wait until Christmas Eve to purchase a ring.

Think unique, said Sam Thomas, owner of Sam’s Fine Jewelry in Sikeston. “Don’t buy something that they made 10,000 of it,” Thomas said. “… When you go to buy the stone, you need to speak to someone who has the knowledge on jewelry.”

In addition to rings, lots of gold earrings and bracelets are being purchased for women this Christmas, Heavener said.

“We do have women who buy a lot of chains and bracelets for guys this time of year,” Heavener said.

Heavener also suggested taking advantage of care and insurance plans offered by jewelers.

“It’s a wonderful thing. If you lose a diamond, you send it in and get it replaced,” Heavener said. “… It’s really worth it.”

Hurley said someone shopping for jewelry doesn’t necessarily have to be educated about diamonds or gold.

“I think if they know what they want, that’s good enough. As a salesperson, you have to be willing to let them know all the ins and outs. You need to help them so they’re not making a guess, but a decision,” said Hurley who has worked in the fine jewelry business for 20 years.

Some men do know what they want and some don’t, Hurley said, adding a larger percentage of men know which color and which gold they want.

“I had a gentleman come in today wanting diamond earrings. He knew the size he wanted, and he wanted a princess cut,” Hurley said. “… Let them become comfortable with you, then they will open up and it’s easier to help them.”

Some men like to surprise, and some women like to be surprised, Hurley said. “Some women would be happy with whatever their husband or boyfriend brought to them,” Hurley said.

Jewelry-buying tips

Know what quality of stone you are buying. All stones should carry documentation about any treatment the stone has received to improve its appearance. Most expensive diamonds are sold with a grading report noting the quality of the stone. For diamonds, look for a report from an independent lab like the Gemological Institute of America or the American Gem Society. If the diamond you are considering doesn’t have a report, then you should get one. However, the grading report will not tell you the value; you need an appraisal for that. Colored stones seldom carry an independent grading report and should also be appraised.

Know the value of what you are buying. To understand the value of jewelry, consumers need to get an appraisal. Even before you go shopping, an appraiser can help you get the best value for your money and can give advice as to what styles best hold their value over time. Most reputable jewelers will let you borrow the jewelry to take them to an appraiser. Some require that you purchase the item and then allow you a period in which you can have it appraised and return it for a full refund if it doesn’t meet your expectations. Be sure to ask about a store’s refund/exchange policy in case you have to return the item for any reason.

Choose an accredited appraiser with professional credentials. The appraisal should be done for a set fee, not for a percentage of the value of the property — that’s unethical. “When making a fine jewelry purchase, make sure you understand the return policy, have a thorough description of the item written on your receipt and get it appraised right away,” said Martin Fuller, ASA, master gemologist appraiser, in a release. “An appraisal at the time of purchase will give you confidence and peace of mind, as well as documented evidence if the item is ever lost, damaged or if you want to sell it.

Tips for buying exclusive jewelry

Buying jewelry is something that is liked very much by women all over the world. However, there are quite a few points that have to be remembered while purchasing jewelry. Jewelry is usually made from materials like gold, silver, platinum, glass, and precious gems like pearl, diamond, etc. Again, jewelry is either standard design or custom-made exclusive jewelry. Further, there are various types of ornaments like earrings, nose rings, neckwear, bangles, bracelets, anklewear, rings, etc. Since jewelry is a statement by a woman, it is always better to opt for exclusive jewelry.

Exclusive jewelry should be selected in such a manner that it accentuates the dress and the personality of the woman. The exclusive jewelry should be highly feminine and at the same time be bold, exotic, mysterious, and individualistic. Exclusive jewelry should possess excellent craftsmanship and should also be affordable. Moreover, exclusive jewelry could be either contemporary or represent a period or a culture, like Victorian, Edwardian, Georgian, Belgian, Italian, Asian, Indian, etc.

Gold is the most common jewelry material. For centuries, jewelry lovers and designers had equally preferred the yellow luster and the ease of working of gold into several shapes. Pure gold is normally not used but always mixed with silver or copper to increase the strength of the exclusive jewelry and to make them more durable. Gold is measured in karat. 100% pure gold is termed as 24 carat, while 18 carat is 75% gold and 14 carat is 58% gold. Platinum exclusive jewelry is highly expensive, since it is about thirty-five times rare compared to gold. However, platinum exclusive jewelry does not tarnish or fade.

It would be better to have knowledge of the precious and semi precious gems and stones before buying exclusive jewelry. Amber is formed normally from fossilized sticky resin that comes from ancient pine trees. Emerald is obtained mineral deposits and is a green gemstone. Jade is available in two types, Jadeite and Nephrite. Jade is one the hardest of gems and could be carved into various forms and sizes. Nephrite is normally green, while Jadeite is available in red, blue, green and black. Lapis Lazuli is normally blue, but sometimes could have green or violet tints. The blueness comes from the sulphur that is present in the stone. Onyx is mostly black. Pears are either from freshwater pearl oysters or cultured. Nearly 95% of available pears are of the cultured type.

Women should also know the maintenance of exclusive jewelry to avoid it getting dirty. Generally, the oils from our skin and other beauty products like lotions that are applied on the skin tarnish exclusive jewelry. However, you could use warm water containing a little dishwashing liquid to clean most of the exclusive jewelry. Soaking for a considerable time in hot soap solution is also a good practice before cleaning with hand or using a fine brush. Finally, the exclusive jewelry should be rinsed in cold water and dried with a soft cloth. However, pearl and coral should not be soaked. Jewelry of various types should be kept in separate boxes designed specially for each item.

1. Cut up those layered gold chains.
The trend is moving toward ’statement’ jewelry…that’s one standout necklace. Maybe it’s a dramatic medallion. Or a rich textured chain. Or a thick choker that screams for attention. If you have a long layered necklace, you can clip off some of the chains to turn it into a solitary piece. Just use a wire cutter to cut near the clasp.

2. Less is more.
National Jeweler is recommending wearing bolder, larger pieces that are gem- and color-intensive. Check your jewelry collection for dramatic pieces. Then wear only one or 2 at a time: an oversized cocktail ring or a dangly pair of earrings, for example. Whatever you choose, be sure they make an impression.

3. Look for versatile pieces.
A long stranded necklace with a clasp can be worn several ways: as a single strand, as a triple strand choker, even as a bracelet.

4. Earn a compliment.
Pay attention to which pieces of jewelry wins you a compliment. If your best friend, or a neighbor, or a stranger compliments you on a necklace, wear it more often. Jewelry is meant to enhance your look. It should catch someone’s attention. Same goes for what you like…if you find yourself giving a compliment, remember the piece. You can keep that in mind when shopping.

5. Buy what you love.
If you’re out shopping and something catches your eye instantly, respect that instinct. That first reaction is powerful. You really like a piece when you feel that emotion of “I want that.” If you love it, buy it. You’ll love it every time you put it on.

6. Try it on.
That being said, try on jewelry before purchasing. Be sure it’s comfortable. Does it have the right length? Can you work the clasp? Does it stay on? That test run is important because if a piece doesn’t fit, you won’t wear it.

7. Stack your bracelets.
Women’s Wear Daily declared the bracelet THE piece for this season. Wear any style you like: thin, thick, cuff, beaded, silver, gold, bronze. Many trendsetters are stacking them. Often it’s the same style stacked together. Or it’s the same color in a few different styles. Or it’s a group in complimentary colors. Any way you want to wear a bracelet, you’ll be a fashionista.

8. Give up the watch.
If you don’t wear bracelets, your excuse is “but I wear a watch so I can’t wear a bracelet!” So wear bracelets on your other wrist. Or buy bracelets that are thin and will coordinate with your watch (same metal, same color). Better yet, give up your watch. You carry a cell phone…get the time from that. Or ask a handsome stranger for the time.

9. Buy jewelry in neutral colors.
They’ll go with most of your wardrobe…giving you versatility. Greys, camels, frosts, blacks are all good choices. They go with everything. Or look for a multi-colored piece. Something with 10 hues in autumnal colors will match a lot of outfits.

10. Repair your favorite pieces.
If it’s an expensive piece, take it back to the store you purchased it from. If it’s from a local designer, call them…most local artists will do repairs for free…they want you to be able to wear their creations. If it’s a costume piece of jewelry, you can visit a craft store or a bead store. They might offer repairs. Or you can buy supplies to re-string a necklace or replace a clasp.

11. Ask Grandma for her jewelry.
So many retro and vintage styles are back in fashion. Take a look at your mom’s, aunt’s, or grandmother’s jewelry box. Look for enamel bracelets, Swarovski crystal necklaces, oversized earrings…all in vogue now. You can also find great vintage jewelry at estate sales, antique fairs and thrift stores.

12. Store your jewelry in an air tight container.
Oxygen is what makes sterling silver tarnish. So when you’re not wearing your jewelry put it in your jewelry box. Or you can even use a small ziplock bag. One from a grocery store is fine, or The Container Store has small bags in heavy plastic that are the perfect size for jewelry. To prevent tangling, store one necklace in one ziplock bag. Leave the clasp sticking out a bit from the zipper. That way the chain won’t tangle.

— Kirsten Goede, Chicago Jewelry Designer, Objets d’Envy

Cleaning tips

No matter how much money you spend on those fancy packaged jewelry cleaning kits the solution they use is mainly 50% ammonia and 50% water. If you want your own solution to have a fancy color just add a drop of red or blue dye to the solution and you will have the best jewelry cleaning solution for a cost of about 25 cents rather than $5.00.

This solution can be used to clean diamonds, rubies, sapphires, topaz, tourmalines, and just about any non-porous stones, along with any gold jewelry.

DO NOT use this solution with any porous gem material such as pearls, Lapis Lazuli, opal, or any other porous gem that will soak up the solution.

DO NOT allow your local jeweler to put your emerald into a ultrasonic cleaner. As we discussed in a previous section, virtually all emeralds are sealed with a clear resin-like oil and boiling them in an ultrasonic cleaner will take this sealer off.

If you wish to clean pearls, opals, Lapis Lazuli, or other gems of this type use a very mild soap and water solution with a soft cloth. This will remove any dirt without damaging the piece.

Emeralds
Emeralds should be cleaned with warm water, a very mild detergent, and a soft brush. Ultrasonic or steam cleaning is not safe and can result in breakage or inadvertent release of oils (which mask inclusions). Emeralds should be re-oiled every 2-5 years and reset only by jewelers experienced with the special handling requirements of these gems. Loose stones should be stored in velvet-lined boxes within individual compartments. They should be stored separately from diamonds and other harder gems to prevent scratching.

Alexandrite
This gem is sensitive to knocks, it is not resistant to Alkalis. Cleaning methods which are safe are ultrasonic, steamer or warm soapy water. When you are not wearing your Alexandrite place it in a clean cloth pouch in a separate compartment from other gems to avoid scratching.

Pearls
Do not toss your pearls carelessly into your purse, bag or jewel box. A pearls surface is soft and can be scratched by hard metal edges, keys etc. The proper way is to place your pearls in a chamois bag or wrap them in white tissue paper when putting them away.

Cosmetics, perspiration, saliva, perfumes, hairspray and just daily wear and tear can weaken and stretch the threads on which your pearls are hung. Every year have your pearls inspected by your jeweler and re-strung if necessary with a knot between each pearl, preventing a
disaster should your pearl string should break. Put your pearls on after you’ve applied hairspray. Hairspray will cause fine pearls to yellow.

Opals
Do not use a home ultrasonic machine or jewelry cleaner. Care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows, household chemicals, and extreme temperature changes ( If you have on an Opal ring in a warm heated car and step out into sub-zero weather the stone may shatter.) To maintain the brilliance of opal, it should be wiped clean with a soft cloth.

Amber
The absolute enemy of amber is oxygen. Before it is unearthed most amber specimens are in an anaerobic environment ( without oxygen). Once they are exposed to air they begin to deteriorate. To care for your amber pieces wash in a mild soap and water and pat dry gently. The acids from skin can be damaging also, it will build up on the piece and begin to break down the surface. Make a habit of regular cleaning of the jewelry.

The simplest measure you can take to protect amber specimens is to keep them in a cool place away from strong light. It’s not too practical
to totally exclude oxygen (air) from the amber, but placing it in small sealable plastic bags may help reduce the overall exposure levels over
time. For strict archival preservation, consider placing extremely rare or precious material under an inert gas.

Jade
Jade, though quite durable and once used like steel in early tools, is susceptible to breaking and should be handled with care. It is not
recommended to clean jade jewelry or figures using gem cleaner. In fact, it is often believe that jade will, over time, continue to darken in color by rubbing it for good luck and you wouldn’t want to wash it all away. We suggest a polishing cloth for cleaning your jade jewelry to maintain its beautiful shine.

Platinum
One of the rarest and most durable of the precious metals, platinum is resistant to tarnishing and discoloration by chemicals. However it still needs to be cared for properly. Store your platinum pieces separately, even the tough platinum can sustain scratches and wear from abrasive edges. If visible scratches do appear, the piece can be easily re-polished by your jeweler.

Silver
Store your silver in a cool, dry place. Preferably in a tarnish preventative bag or wrapped in felt or a soft cloth. Store them individually so they don’t scratch. DO NOT apply those commercial silver cleaners you see advertised on tv. They remove silver and damage your fine jewelry. Use a polishing cloth designed for silver to polish your silver. Tissue paper or paper towels can cause scratches because of the fibers in these products. Prevent tarnish in the first place by not exposing to air and light when stored. Avoid exposure to household chemicals or chlorinated water.

Gold
To clean your gold jewelry at home, you’ll find many commercial cleaners that work well. Pick up a small soft chamois to keep it nice and shiny. Remove al gold jewelry before showering, cleaning, swimming in chlorinated pools or hot-tubs. The chlorine and harsh chemicals will leave your fine gold pitted and weakened over time. If you find an old piece of gold that is covered with tarnish, make a solution of soap and water mixed with a few drops of ammonia. Place the jewelry in the solution and softly brush the piece with a soft toothbrush.

After brushing, rinse the solution off with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean cloth. If your gold jewelry contains colored gemstones,
look up the care of that gemstone before cleaning.

Diamonds
Diamonds attract skin oils. If a human touches a diamond the oils adhere to the surface. Use the cleaner mentioned above periodically. Avoid household cleaners and chlorine bleach. Chlorine in pools and hot-tubs will damage your gold setting, pitting the gold and may weaken prongs over time, leaving a danger of loosing your diamond.

Do not wear your diamond jewelry, especially rings, when doing rough work. A diamond is tough but can be chipped or damaged by a sharp blow. When they are stored in your Jewel box keep them separated from other jewelry, if they slide up against another piece they will scratch the other piece.

Titanium in jewelry

Because of its durability, titanium has become more popular for designer jewelry in recent years, whereas until recently the metal was too difficult to work into the intricate shapes with the precision necessary for fine jewelry. Today, titanium rings — including engagement rings and wedding bands — are one of the fastest growing segments of the titanium jewelry market, in part due to the ability of the metal to be grooved, inlaid, and carved without losing strength. Some titanium jewelry also incorporates diamonds or other gemstones, typically in close settings such as bezels, flush, or tension designs. Its inertness again makes it a good choice for those with allergies or those who will be wearing the jewelry in environments such as swimming pools.

Titanium-Jewelry dot com, a leading online retailer of titanium rings, tungsten rings and unique titanium jewelry, today announced that affordable and stylish alternatives are highly demanded as price increases in precious metals limit options for grooms seeking men’s wedding bands.

Across the United States and abroad, many grooms have discovered that they are being priced out of the market when shopping for traditional wedding bands in gold and platinum. The average person does not pay attention to the price of gold, platinum and other precious metals on a regular basis. As such, most do not know that the cost of men’s wedding bands made of platinum or gold, have tripled in cost over the last 5 years. “It can be shocking when a young man heads into the jewelry store with his fiancee and eyes a basic platinum wedding band selling for $2,000, or more. With the rising costs of weddings, many grooms simply can no longer afford the traditional platinum wedding band,” stated Ron Yates, owner of Yates & Co Jewelers in Modesto, CA.

The reason for the dramatic increase in men’s wedding bands made of white gold or platinum is due to the rising cost of precious metals, which have increased by as much as 30% over the past year. The price of gold has risen from $600 per ounce to over $750 per ounce. Platinum has also increased from $1100 to over $1400 per ounce since this time last year. According to Curtis Hesler, editor of the Forbes Newsletter, The Professional Timing Service, “The first quarter of next year, could see gold push the $800 level.” The increases in the precious metal market, has negatively affected the choices available to many couples looking to select wedding or other fine jewelry.

The solution: modern, alternative metals such as Titanium, Black Titanium and Tungsten Carbide. For the past several years many younger grooms have been purchasing titanium and tungsten wedding bands mainly for their durability and hypoallergenic qualities. However, cost is becoming the primary motivating factor. With the increasing number of younger grooms being priced out of gold or platinum wedding bands, couples are overwhelmingly choosing contemporary metals. Wedding bands made of Titanium, Black Titanium, Tungsten Carbide and Carbon Fiber, are viable choices for wedding bands and wedding rings, offering customers affordable quality and modern styling.

Platinum wedding bands for men in 6mm widths are selling for $2,000 and more. Titanium rings and tungsten rings in the same widths can be purchased at a fraction of the cost. A leading online retailer of contemporary jewelry, Titanium-Jewelry.com, has many styles of tungsten and titanium wedding bands for as low as $79.

“We’ve seen a huge increase in men choosing contemporary metals for their wedding rings. Just three or four years ago most guys never heard of titanium rings or tungsten rings,” stated Yates. “Now couples are considering these rings as a viable choice for their wedding rings. They like modern designs, durability and the affordability,” Yates concluded.

Titanium is the only element that offers the unique combination of beauty, strength, light weight and bio-compatibility.

Titanium now commands the highest levels of quality for many consumer product industries; including sporting equipment, medical, automotive and marine, art and architecture, gift ware and, of course, jewelry. Even credit cards now tout their ultimate achievement with a titanium designation.

Unique and exceptional properties of titanium

• Highest ratio between strength and density of all metallic materials
• Extreme mechanical and thermal loading capacity
• Extreme tensile strength - stonger than steel but 42% lighter
• High corrosion resistance, particularly against oxygen
• Extremely bio-compatible because of it’s tissue compatibility and it’s elastic attributes

Titanium is inert.
Titanium has been embraced by the medical world for its superior bio-compatibility, and is the preferred material for surgical instruments and implants. Titanium is inert and therefore completely corrosion resistant. It does not react to salt water, sunlight, or any body chemistry. Titanium is 100% hypoallergenic. Titanium is the preferred material for surgical tools, implants, pacemaker cases and other internal casings. It won’t react with any part of the body, making it a great choice for even those persons most sensitive to other materials. When a person has an allergic reaction when wearing a pair of gold or silver earrings due to the alloys, it is recommended that they switch over to titanium earrings. And unlike silver, titanium will never tarnish!

Titanium is extremely durable and strong.
Titanium is more resistant and has the highest strength to weight ratio of ANY known element, which is why 85% of the Space Shuttles structure is titanium. In fact that is why many titanium ring manufacturers have a lifetime warranty. In jewelry applications, titanium’s strength allows for design capabilities that were otherwise impossible. For example, tension set rings made with titanium provides maximum security for the stone. Softer materials such as gold, silver and platinum cannot make this claim! In fact, even the softest forms of titanium start with over 30,000 psi tension, much more than platinum. Titanium can be worn throughout active and demanding lifestyles without concern for the excessive wear and tear that would be exhibited by gold and platinum.

Titanium is lightweight.
Only slightly heavier than aluminum with the strength of steel. Today, “light’ is the quality standard in all fields. With jewelry, titanium’s light weight translates into comfort. Platinum, gold and silver must sacrifice style and function to reduce weight and costs.

Titanium is pure.
The World Titanium Council endorses Spectore’s grey titanium which is 99+% commercially pure. No other conventional material can boast this claim. 14kt gold is 58% pure and platinum is generally 90% pure. For those who wish to wear a pure metal, titanium is the logical choice.

Titanium is a noble element.
Titanium is the first new element to enter the noble metals arena of platinum and gold in over 3,000 years.

Titanium is leading edge.
The technology used in working with titanium has significantly and positively impacted manufacturing methods throughout the entire jewelry industry. Titanium is the perfect marriage of art and science.

Titanium is virtuous.
Many say that had titanium been discovered before platinum and gold, it would be the leading jewelry material today.

Titanium is fashionable.
Titanium provides the stylish rich grey tones of platinum at a much more attractive price. Many designers such as Edward Mirell are designing fashion forward cutting edges styles for titanium jewelry. Titanium is at the forefront in the designer jewelry community. No other metal has experienced such a dramatic rise in popularity as titanium.

Why different grades of Titanium?
No doubt you have noticed that there are many different grades of titanium jewelry on the market. Most titanium jewelry products being sold are some type of alloyed titanium - not pure titanium. We use a commercially pure (CP) grade of titanium. Within the CP category the most popular are grades 1 through 4. CP Grade 1 is the softest and Grade 4 is the hardest. The primary difference between the grades is the quantity of Oxygen, the addition of which creates the increases in hardness. We use CP Grade 2 in all of our gray titanium products. We found it to be the ideal balance between titanium’s hardness and workability. It can be cut off, refinished, and engraved, yet it is resistant to marring and polishes well.

What is Black Titanium?
Titanium is naturally a grayish white color. However to achieve the beautiful black color, Black Titanium employs a process using Black-Ti™. Black-Ti™ is a proprietary titanium alloy made entirely of rare earth and strategic elements, with insignificant amounts of trace elements. This distinctive alloy is far more costly than other titanium products due to the rarity of the alloy materials. All of the alloy materials are inert but extremely reactive at high temperatures, and must be processed at every stage in very tightly controlled environments. This a revolutionary alloy even within the Titanium World. Black-Ti™ is a registered trademark of Spectore Corp. Click here for some examples of black titanium rings.

Black Titanium is not an applied coating but is formed from the outside and works inward. It is a result of the chemistry between the Black-Ti™ alloy, temperature and atmospheric conditioning.

It has been compared to a ceramic like surface, resisting scratches. However, it is not scratch proof. With heavy wear and tear the outer black titanium shell can be nicked. Because of the increased hardness, and, to address the concern of cutting the ring off in case of emergency, the thickness of the blackened portion does not go all the way through the ring.

Tungsten Carbide

Tungsten is the only rare and exotic metal that can be permanently polished. The polish and finish can last as long as your commitment to each other - up to 50 years!

With gold, platinum and even titanium rings, you will notice varying degrees of scratching, denting and surface mars. However, with tungsten rings, the surface will maintain it’s original beautiful shiny finish.

Many people also enjoy the heavy weight of a tungsten ring. The enduring polish of a tungsten ring together with the solid weight, speak of commitment, security and an everlasting bond.

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Tiffany & Co., the internationally renowned jeweler, celebrates the new Legacy Collection which is a true epitome of stunning elegance and captivating originality.

The latest collection is inspired by jewels in the Tiffany archives - and filled with ways to give more brilliance than ever. The LEgacy Collection is an art deco-inspired designs of spectacular diamonds set in platinum. Quintessential Tiffany.

Fleur de Lis earrings

French for “flower of the lily”. Earrings of diamonds in platinum, for pierced ears.

The collection reflects the fluid streamlined jewels in the early decades of the 20th century. Luxurious in length and lavish detail, the new diamond range complements style with lasting spirit and vitality. It carries diamond drop earrings and pendants in platinum, Skier Charms in diamonds, coloured gemstones and platinum; and Snowflake pendants with round brilliant diamonds and platinum. The motifs form sparkling drop pendants with ultra fine, diamond-studded chains and earrings of pure fashion chic. Thus paired with the cool elegance of platinum, the diamonds generate a spectacular beauty and radiance that are hallmarks of Tiffany designs.

Four-square drop earrings

Evokes the glamour of the Edwardian period. Four-square drop earrings of diamonds in platinum, for pierced ears.

Ms. Pegah Goldooz, General Manager of Tiffany & Co., in the UAE, said:

‘As one of the world’s premier jeweller, Tiffany & Co. has left its mark of excellence on every period of fashion and design since the company’s founding in 1837. The new Legacy Collection is no exception. Exquisitely faceted round and pear shaped diamonds are set in open geometric motifs including perfect squares and chevrons. These objects of desire epitomise a life lives well and reveal Tiffany in its truest light: a dynamic enterprise of modern glamour and luxury that is dedicated to its tradition of excellence.’

Once again Tiffany has established the standard for the finest quality diamonds that shine throughout its history with the launch of its Legacy line of jewels. Housed in the company’s archives, these treasures continue to influence Tiffany jewellers in creating the designs of the moment with the choicest diamonds, unsurpassed in colour, clarity and cut with technical virtuosity.

Tiffany Legacy Collection™ open square drop pendant. Round brilliant diamonds, carat total weight .72. Platinum. On a 16″ chain.

Together these factors give diamonds of the Legacy Collection their extraordinary style and electrifying sparkle that strike a deep emotional chord.

The exclusive Legacy Collection is available at the Tiffany & Co. stores located at Saks Fifth Avenue in Burjuman Centre, Deira City Centre, Mall of the Emirates and Marina Mall in Abu Dhabi.
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The solemn atmosphere of Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum–the former residence of Prince Asaka (1887-1981)–sets the perfect stage for viewing the history of one of the world’s most prominent jewelers.

Tiffany & Co. is currently displaying a collection of its jewelry produced between 1837 and 2007, with accessories made using silver, gold, pearls, diamonds and other gemstones showcased in the Art Deco-style building.

“Teien is a jewel box,” said Annamarie Sandecki, director of Tiffany & Co. Archives, adding that she spent a considerable amount of time choosing the perfect venue.

While the location is an important factor in providing a luxurious and elegant feel, the way the items are displayed, she says, takes them back to the exquisite moments when the jewels were worn. To achieve this, Sandecki prepared four busts on which the jewelry are displayed to give viewers an idea of how they look as accessories, not just as artwork.

“Jewelry is…almost dead when it’s not on the body. So, I think, when I go to a jewelry exhibition and I look at all of the pieces and say, ‘Lovely, but how does it look on?’” she says. “Put it on the bust and it has a little bit of life. If you walk through the exhibition, one of the challenges is making the necklaces look right. We’re looking at the necklaces and designer made mounts that look a little bit like shoulders so you can see how they hang. Jewelry is living, it flows–how does it look in the light? How does it look on the person who’s wearing it?”

The exhibition starts with “Bird On a Rock”–a brooch made in 1995 with one of the world’s largest fancy yellow diamonds found in South Africa–and visitors are ushered into separate rooms with displays showcasing pieces from particular eras.

Tiffany & Co., which was cofounded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902), started off as a stationery and luxuries store in New York, but eventually concentrated on jewelry that has been designed for many famous figures, including Abraham Lincoln, who wanted something for his wife.

The exhibits trace the evolution of Tiffany from its earliest days all the way through to the popular “Open Heart” and modern designs by Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso (daughter of Pablo Picasso) and architect Frank Gehry. Visitors can see how America’s state of mind, politics and economy have affected jewelry design.

“We’re very American. We’re not European, we’ll never be European,” Sandecki said about Tiffany’s designs. “And what that means to be very American is that we are always trying to do different things…We are brave, we are creative, give a lot of energy. I sometimes think that if a country could be people, Americans would be small children, because we’re always running around bouncing. We’re always excited, we are always eager to learn something new or different.”

Of the 10 sections, Sandecki says her favorite is “the New York World’s Fair and the 1940s”–the difficult times during World War II. She says the section is very representative of the national character of Americans.

“To me, that’s when we were just children…It was a sad time for the rest of the world, and in the United States, we were still sad, but were willing to try new things, and as a company, we were strong enough to be able to have resources to try new things,” she said.

The designs in this period can be characterized as big and gorgeous, using huge gemstones despite it being a time when it was difficult to import stones.

“There were designers who were able to experiment, not a lot–the big suites, the big brooches and necklaces and bracelets–those were only made for four years. They ran out of the gemstones. Not a lot of them were made. I’ve seen, in 16 years, maybe about ten. But they’re fabulous! They’re so big, so exciting,” she said.

Many of the pieces of jewelry that Sandecki collected came with a story when they were handed to the art director.

“I’d like to say every piece of jewelry that I brought has a family story behind it. And I think I’m very lucky because the family has given that to us,” she said.

The exhibition takes visitors on a journey through the history of the United States, in which family heirlooms light the way, reflecting the illumination of a far-away land in Tokyo.

“The Jewels of Tiffany” runs through Dec. 16 at Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum in Minato Ward, Tokyo, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Last admission at 5:30 p.m.) Admission is 1,200 yen for adults, while 960 yen for college students and 600 yen for primary, middle and high school students and seniors aged 65 or older.

TOKYO SHOWCASES “JEWELS OF TIFFANY” EXHIBITION

Retailer giant, Tiffany & Co., is currently displaying select pieces of jewelry it has produced since 1837. The collection features items made using silver, gold, pearls, diamonds and other gemstones and is being showcased at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum.

The exhibition featured at the museum, which was also the former residence of Prince Asaka (1887-1987), opens with “Bird On a Rock,” which is a brooch made in 1995 with one of the world’s largest fancy yellow diamonds found in South Africa.

The exhibition entitled, “The Jewels of Tiffany” is comprised of 10 separate sections each showcasing a different era in American history. The pieces of jewelry are family heirlooms; each with their own unique story.

“The Jewels of Tiffany” is open to the public until December 16 at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum in Minato Ward, Tokyo.

Tiffany & Co. was co-founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812—1902). The company started out as a stationery and luxury store in New York and eventually established an emphasis on jewelry. As of January 31, 2007 there are 167 store locations worldwide.

Diamond mining company Gem Diamonds and the government of the Kingdom of Lesotho have named the 493-carat white diamond recovered in early September the “Letseng Legacy,” after its place of discovery.

The diamond, ranked as the world’s 18th largest rough diamond, was discovered in Lesotho’s Letseng le Terai mine. Letseng Diamonds, which is 70 percent owned by Gem Diamonds and 30 percent owned by the government of the Kingdom of Lesotho, has now produced three of the world’s top 20 diamonds – The Letseng Legacy, the Lesotho Promise, and the Lesotho Brown.

The Letseng Legacy will be sold on tender in Antwerp by WWW International Diamond Consultuants on the 14th of November at a ceremony attended by the Lesotho Minister of Natural Resources, the Honourable Minister Monyane Moleleki, and the Gem Diamonds directors.

In addition to the Letseng Legacy, Gem Diamonds also recovered the 603-carat Lesotho Promise in August 2006. The Lesotho Promise, considered to be the world’s 15th largest rough diamond, was sold on tender in October 2006 for US$12.4 million to Graff Jewelers. The collection of polished diamonds from the Lesotho Promise is expected to sell for between US$25-30 million.

The Lesotho Brown diamond, which was recovered in 1961 and ranks as the world’s 16th largest diamond, yielded 18 polished diamonds, the largest of which was recently re-acquired by the original buyer, jewelers Harry Winston.

The Letseng mine hosts two kimberlites, the Main and Satellite Pipes, which have a combined diamond resource value of US$4.7 billion. Gem Diamonds’ Interim Result ending June 2007 reported that the average price per carat achieved from the Letseng Staellite Pipe was US$1894 and US$1128 from the Main Pipe. The world average price is approximately US$81 per carat.

In January 2007, Letseng Diamonds also produced a 215 carat D-color flawless diamond, which sold on tender for US$8.3 million.

World’s 18th Largest Diamond named ‘Letseng Legacy’

Gem Diamonds and the Lesotho Government have named the 493 carat diamond recovered at their Letseng Mine in September, the “Letseng Legacy”.

The diamond ranks as the 18th largest rough diamond ever found and is set to be sold on November 14, 2007 by tender in Antwerp by WWW International Diamond Consultants. Lesotho’s Minister of Natural Resources, Monyane Moleleki, and Gem Diamonds’ directors are scheduled to attend the ceremony.

“The name reflects the growing legacy the Letseng Mine is creating as a producer of remarkable diamonds,” Gem Diamonds said in a statement.

The mine, which is 70 percent owned by Gem diamonds and 30 percent by the Lesotho Government has produced three of the world’s top 20 diamonds.

The Letseng Legacy joins the ranks of the 603 carat Lesotho Promise, which, found in August 2006, lists as the 15th largest diamond ever mined and was sold for $12.4 million to Graff Jewelers, and the Lesotho Brown diamond, which was recovered in 1961 and is the16th largest.